BOSS Gallery Collection returns to the spotlight for Fall/Winter 2018 with a presentation at New York Fashion Week. Designed by BOSS Womenswear artistic director Jason Wu, the capsule collection this season takes inspiration from New York-based artist Robert Morris, whose pure and deconstructed minimalism is translated through the tailoring codes of the house.
Courtesy of an innovative approach to cut, construction and cloth, tailoring is reworked. A BOSS icon, the suit itself, is reimagined with a new feminine silhouette, defined by a stronger shoulder and a contoured waist that sensually sculpts the body. The half-canvassed interior, featuring detailed workmanship, ensures the design stays true to tradition.
Shirts too are exaggerated in proportion, crafted from cotton or silk satin with elegant dropped shoulders and long, voluminous sleeves. In a sporty direction, an oversize parka meets tropical wool fabric as the worlds of tailoring and sportswear are combined.
Satin dresses and chunky knits infuse the collection with a new feminine mood. Fluid wrap designs feature appliquéd stripes, while intricate geometric quilting is embroidered onto the bodices of sleek, bias-cut gowns. Oversize knits are light and airy in mohair, or envelop the body in soft Merino wool.
As always with BOSS Womenswear, details are in focus, and these too take influence from the work of Robert Morris. Traditional tailoring fabrics like wool flannel and felt are updated with inventive cuts and drapes, or sliced into stripes and patched with satin and chiffon. Contrast color accentuates raw-cut edges, while mohair fabric softens fine, windowpane checks.
Accessories are bold in vibrant leather and zebra-print calf hair. Pumps, loafers and sandals are the key shapes for footwear, while bags take the form of soft hobos and totes.
The color palette features sartorial neutrals of charcoal, dark navy and black, shot through with highlights of electric blue, while tones of pale yellow lend a decidedly softer touch to the new BOSS Gallery Collection.