A woman and her bag. Or rather her bags. It’s a timeless story of fashion and of love between practicality and aesthetic passion. Karl Lagerfeld tells it here through a prism that transcends generations, styles and eras. For the Spring-Summer 2018 handbag campaign, the designer has invited model Kaia Gerber to Mademoiselle Chanel’s apartment. A world in which every piece of furniture, every object is a bearer of authenticity, emotions, memories. Like the fawn suede sofa with quilted cushions immortalised in photographs of Gabrielle Chanel surrounded by her models and her dearest friends, and on which today Kaia Gerber strikes a pose. Time has no hold on this refuge, the soul of Gabrielle Chanel remains there, and Karl Lagerfeld takes care to bring it ever more to life.
The CHANEL handbag is an icon, a pure concentrate of dreams, of history, of a luxury meticulously fashioned. The 11.12 bag, in richly embroidered tweed or playful in coloured transparent PVC, illustrates a mood, a desire and travels through time, essential to every silhouette. The last-born, CHANEL’s GABRIELLE handbag, is, just like its predecessors, both practical and elegant. Its volume, its suppleness fitted on a rigid base and its strap allowing for multiple ways of wearing it, distinguishes it from the other bags of the House. The Boy CHANEL bag reveals a taste for the masculine/feminine at CHANEL, Gabrielle Chanel’s own borrowings from menswear and notably the hunter’s cartridge belts she wore over the shoulder and which provided direct inspiration. Finally, a vanity case and a camera case with their original shapes swathed in exotic leathers or charms.
In this new campaign, the diversity of the CHANEL bags is made clear, and yet they’re all linked by an eternal, instantly recognisable style. The CHANEL bag is a true fashion manifesto, a history of women, all women.
A dance of threads. A dreamlike journey from Italy to China: a silken thread strung between the West and the East, a veritable bridge extending from Europe to the faraway lands of the Dragon Throne that follows the historical traces of two ancient cultures. A blend of textiles and threads of overlapping motifs that intertwine two worlds and two contrasting yet complementary visions as if by magic.
China is the breeding ground of aesthetics and cultures, a thousand-year-old backdrop for exchange and a workshop of symbols. The journey is an epic, in which western travellers come face to face with ancient Chinese nobility and its enchanting world of rites, brimming with splendour and decorative collections.
A palette that gradates from light pastel shades and then intensifies, becoming vivid and allegorical. Light pink turns into fuchsia, peach becomes tangerine, and light blue deepens to a turquoise enamel. Straw colours slip lavishly into imperial yellow on black. Venice and the resplendent Cathay appear in unison in brocades that erupt in vibrant abstraction.
Patterns, that take on huge proportions and become dynamic in the lines and weaves, dance together with the looms in rhythmic progression, in time with the quick and dexterous hands that weave gold thread embroidery. A group of dignitaries from the Tang dynasty wear overcoats embellished with studs, the collection’s leitmotiv. With idealised knights and horses, explorers and merchants on the Silk Road, this is a fantastical voyage that draws life from pure, fundamental, crisp forms embellished by broderies resembling brocades and damask, reminiscent of linear Mandarin styles.
Imprinting makes a resurgence in the small waistcoats, which bear a resemblance to the flared trapezoid cuirasses that high officials of the Celestial Empire used to strap to their armour, as well as in the court coats that have a simpler artistic design use and a simpler use of textiles. The clothing is indented and structured by pleats that stand out thanks to row of tiny studs. Pleated skirts open out, revealing a mysterious transparent trompe-oeil effect. The animal print of Ming paintings is clear in the edge, hem and cuff details, an allusion to the legendary snow leopard skin, as well as the domesticated cheetahs that aristocrats used to bring with them when hunting on horseback.
Fabrics on fabrics, geometric inlay work, empty space on top of filled space. The traditional mandarin garment is the inspiration for the bulbous black dress coat, with a barely visible rounded collar and spotted inserts on the pockets. The traditional exuberant and ironic playfulness of the Maison is evident in the contrasting printed linings. As well as this, animal print coats stand in opposition to the vivid, amethyst interior. The full sleeve jacket with a large stand collar, combined with thread embroidered, brocade-effect trousers are now the new luxury outfit.
The prints on scarves recount this dreamlike journey, and are framed like artwork, featuring images of war horses, traditional costume, fierce dragons, snuff bottles and a nebulous scattering of spots on a base of lacquer hues and pop and fluorescent colours, vibrant jade green celadon, and yellow and violet surface textures.
The jewellery puts a new spin on certain ancestral necklaces and charms with a modern and refined style: it explores stylization, geometric balance and harmony, and gives new meaning to the exotic with an extraordinary and conceptual desire for the abstract.
The red lacquer defines the men’s collection: it intensifies by giving colour to the stripes and check pattern of the shirts. It is printed onto the linings that adorn the new mandarin jackets. The most outlandish blazer comes in a smooth velvet with deep background colours, which in combination are complementary and contrasting. The mohair oversized jumper features dynamic lines of a dusty colour palette assaulted by a vibrant and vivid Chinese yellow: a subtle approach that does not undermine a revamped sartorial experimentation. A silk, mini-print pyjama shirt provides a sophisticated casual look perfect for the evening. The pyjamas inspire the flowy nature of the pinstriped single-piece suits, with white satin piping.
Pure cashmere coats with velvet inlay edges reveal a removable cushioned interior that is reminiscent of historical armour. The parka marries a military spirit with golden spirals of the heavenly dragon. The bomber jacket with a mandarin collar opts for a tongue-in-cheek playfulness with the multi-coloured patches. The traditional uniforms of the imperial armies adopt a shearling interior, creating new sporty style icons.
The Shanghai Tang look now has an army.
“This collection is a Tribute to the life and works of Gianni.
We pay homage to not only his artistic genius but to who he was as a man, and above all, as my brother.
Gianni was an exceptional person for how he celebrated each day as though it was extraordinary and for how he always approached life with a smile on his lips.
Each year Gianni lived, he lived to its fullest: throughout his career, he created collections that to this day are considered a cultural point of reference and inspiration to many.
It would be impossible to commemorate Gianni’s entire world in a single collection, therefore, I have decided to honor his legacy with his beloved prints and dazzling metal mesh.
This collection is for you, Gianni.”
Symbols acquire new meaing and multicultural elements come to life in the urban atmosphere of a Berlin square, a space on the border between reality and the imagination. The Autumn/Winter 2017-2018 Women’s and Men’s collections, presented through Juergen Teller’s photographs, combine different prints and fabrics as an explosion of colour and patterns.
This season, the ETRO woman wears oversized outerwear and dresses with Paisley and flower patterns, rich in details with colourful ribbons and hems.
Accessories strike a balance between folk and urban style. ETRO’s Rainbow Colour Bag is the protagonist of the season, celebrating the power of colour through a combination of creative geometric patchwork, inspired by the Himalayas.
The Men’s collection presents sophisticated suits, made from superlight and uniquely tactile tartan fabrics. Iconic elements are combined with contemporary details, utilizing the entire spectrum and shades of blue.
PHOTOGRAPHER: JUERGEN TELLER
WOMEN’S CASTING: ANNA EWERS
MEN’S CASTING: BAPTISTE RADUFE
Swiss luxury brand Bally will be present at Pitti Uomo for the first time this June, launching its Spring Summer ’18 retro sneaker collection.
Bringing back the magic with the revival of its best sneaker styles over the past decades, Bally’s retro sneaker collection includes four replications of its most successful lace ups, from hip-hop era classics to smashing tennis shoes and sporty runners.
Bally Sneakers rose to recognition in the mid-1980s among rappers on the hip-hop scene. Doug E. Fresh wore a pair on his 1986 album cover Oh, My God!, and long before musicians were calling out other sneaker brands in their lyrics, Slick Rick shouts out he’s wearing ‘Bally shoes and fly green socks’. One of the four styles that have been replicated, the Competition has been produced with the same shape, lining and sole as the original shoe from the 80s. The replica will be presented alongside four additional derivations, exclusively for Pitti Uomo, in Kodak, garnet, marine and snuff.
Sport shoes were a big part of Bally’s DNA as far back as the 1960s when the brand launched its Super Smash series of tennis shoes. Reissued with a vulcanised sole and the same Bally logo on the side, the canvas shoes are available as replicas as well as three new derivations, in both hi and low top styles, and as full leather versions.
Bally’s Galaxy runner, a shoe originally created for utility in 1988, has also been reissued and is now Bally’s lightest sneaker, crafted in canvas with suede detail. The original model in garnet has been reproduced alongside two new versions in Kodak and black, with the original running sole.
The 1974 Vita-Parcours completes the collection, with original identifiable black and white check pattern and produced with a modernised sneaker sole, used in Bally’s Heimberg collection. A more urban shoe, the sneaker comes in its original form and three additional fabrications for men.
Bally’s retro sneaker collection is available in stores and online from January 2018 onwards.
Every walk’s a catwalk with Ted’s innovative activewear – the newly launched Fit to a T Collection. From Pilates to press-ups, this contemporary collection fuses sports fabrications with silhouette-sculpting designs to ensure a supportive and stylish workout. With signature romantic rose prints mixed with dancing butterfly’s effect, the collection is crafted with high intensity workouts in mind, ensuring you hit the ground running. Printed leggings ELESIA, sports jacket FESTINE and the sports bras JUMPTO are designed in supremely comfortable fabrics and head-turning tones for smooth moves and style for miles.
Ted also gives a nod to the season’s sport-luxe trend with his latest athletic attire. Pair the ACE, featuring contemporary contrast panelling, or ACTIV bomber with CLUBE jersey trousers for a wearable look with a spirit of athleticism, the ‘go to’ for an effortless yet fashionable appearance. Ted’s always got your back – cue the SEATA backpack. Finished with multiple pockets and compartments, it’s the perfect for storing those can’t-leave-behind essentials in style.
TED BAKER FASHION WALK STORE
Shop 8 & 21, G/F And Shop F6, 1/F,
Causeway Bay, Hong Kong
(Ph: 2412 1488)
Others have done it before. Now it’s Zlatan Ibrahimovic’s turn. Today A-Z Sportswear is releasing an underwear commercial, starring the footballing God himself.
Last week Zlatan shared the music that gives him the inner strength to perform, in a Spotify Playlist for his own brand A-Z Sportswear. Now he is taking it one step further in a commercial about the only gold that matters – your own inner gold.
Gold belongs to anyone who dares to start something, and has the strength to see it through. Gold isn’t reserved for the precious few that can afford it. Because it’s inside all of us, just waiting to be uncovered. The more you push yourself, the brighter it shines.
To constantly inspire you to keep on believing in your own inner gold, A-Z’s boxers have gold on the inside. The Inner Gold video features music by Swedish rapper Erik Lundin. Like Zlatan, Lundin has gone from an upbringing in an unintegrated community in Sweden, and truly knows what it takes to believe in himself despite no one thinking that you can make it.
”Gold isn’t something reserved for those who can afford it. Gold is something thats inside every single one of us. It’s about knowing that anyone can shine, as long as you fight hard enough for others to see it.”
– Erik Lundin
Scotch & Soda
“THE WORLD ACCORDING TO HEAVENLY CREATURES”
Spring/Summer 2017 Men and Women Collections For Spring-Summer 2017 we immerse ourselves in beautiful natural habitats – from high and dry desert to lush, flora- filled rainforest. We see these natural terrains through the eyes of the habitats’ creatures – creating crazy wild proportions: Botanical patterns and animal prints transform into micro and exploded versions. The metallic beauty of beetles inspiring a shimmering layer you can’t miss. We also draw on our favourite artists’ impressions of this natural beauty. Like Henri Rousseau, who painted the exotic of the jungle without ever having seen it. We adopt his naïve, two-dimensional, flora- ooded lens. We begin Spring in a world of greens and sun-cast-on-rain metallics. Treks into high summer habitats immerse our collection in more colour – from dirt-washed pastels to vivid toxic-warning brights. This season Scotch & Soda also introduce a beach capsule: Five white pieces edged with sweet geo embroideries and French taping for swift summer time-outs