Imperial Russia – or rather, a dream-like depiction – is at the heart of Zuhair Murad’s Couture 2018-19 collection.
The grand balls held by tsars in Saint Petersburg give way to a sense of aristocratic opulence. From the Great Ball that once that marked the opening of a season to the decadent wardrobe of Elisabeth of Russia, famous for her 15 000 gowns, to Tolstoy’s Anna Karenina, the historical savoir-faire redefines contemporary elegance.
A bustier dress with an ivory white trail in is adorned by organic motifs or coats-of-arms, and illuminated by washed out gold beading. Another model with long sleeves, plunging neckline is embellished with tone-on-tone dusty blue guipure. Brocade is paired with Venetian velour and embroided with glimmering stones outlining arabesques – reminiscent of Fabergé eggs. A bronze velour cape envelops the shoulders; soft tulle softens strict cuts.
This femininity is layered with the period’s military wear. In a country where every professional stratum was codified via nationally approved uniforms, this nod to regulation adds a rigorous, masculine touch to the collection. Boyar-inspired jackets are punctuated royal eagles motifs, badges and corded detailing. This hybridity is also expressed in a cropped A-line beaded dress in oxblood sequins with a military collar and sleeves; a dress coat in kaki satin duchess elevated with golden silk thread and paired with matching shorts, or a jumpsuit in celadon blue with chiffon sleeves and a floor sweeping cape.
The bridging of the masculine and feminine, of ornamentation and functionality, two usually opposed worlds, reflects today’s modern woman.
“Curiously, perhaps, it is the inherent disorderliness of desire and subjectivity that makes both Lacanian psychoanalysis and avant-garde art so remarkably radical, and renders them both ideal for a negotiation of the bizarre creations of couture.”
Is it possible to celebrate haute couture while also offering a critical reading of it?
Is it possible to stay faithful to the strict rules decreed by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture** while breaking them down to create a new order?
These are the questions that Maria Grazia Chiuri raises in this autumn-winter 2018-2019 haute couture collection and following the exhibition “Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams”, at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, which, by placing the spotlight on the haute couture creations, paid tribute to the sacred and timeless place that is the atelier.
The ateliers are temples, guardians of thought and ideas. It is at the heart of this notion of couture – with its series of images, shapes, colors and moods – that the creative vision of Maria Grazia Chiuri unfolds. Couture is an example ofthe avant-garde, an art form that develops through imagination. A reflection that cultivates the boldness to repeating codified gestures while seeking to challenge and overturn them. Because couture today is, above all, a conceptual gesture.Like a Marcel Duchamp ready-made.
Sometimes it’s the fabrics that take the lead, produced in age-old mills that can only weave a few meters at a time and which have been tasked with introducing an unusual element or a new aspect of savoir-faire, each material capable ofundergoing modifications to unexpectedly accentuate its effect. At other times, the initial idea comes from the desire to redefine the ritual and manner of dressing according to the various times and occasions that punctuate a day. Hautecouture offers the opportunity to wear a quality that’s unique, to adapt a perfect work to one’s own body. Maria Grazia Chiuri returns to the fundamentals and designs suits in which the Bar jacket develops batwing sleeves. The real trans- gression lies in referring to the rules for use while twisting their syntax.
The powdery palette (brick, green, pink and orange), interacting with nude, colors the clothes but also the accessories– refined costume jewelry, veil and hats – in a complementary continuity of the body on which couture places the em- phasis. Evening dresses, rendered dazzling by their mix of pleating and layering, contrast with simple bustiers which offer a surprising dissonance. The sculptural form of a red silk dress sewn from a single piece of fabric opens the way to a series of majestic and intimate creations, both restrained and explosive: couture, in the process, becoming a psycho- logical place of female resistance.
Alison Bancroft, in a Lacanian sense, equates couture with the mode of expression of the avant-garde movements: reap- propriation of secular practices rejected in a desire for newness and reinterpretation of traditions through contemporary values. It is through this encounter between a system of established rules and the freest creativity that, for Maria Grazia Chiuri, couture becomes akin to rebellion: a kind of ideological “guerrilla” that explodes on the frontiers of entrenched tradition, without ever overstepping them.
* Inspiring Desire: Lacan, Couture, and the Avant-garde, Fashion Theory.
** “ The original models are created exclusively by the head of the house or its permanent sample makers; (…) they are produced only in its own ateliers…”
Definition offered by Didier Grumbach in Dictionnaire de la Mode au XXe Siècle (Editions du Regard, Paris, 1994).
WITH AN AZURE SEA AS A BACKDROP, NAMMOS VILLAGE ON MYKONOS IS THE LOCATION CHOSEN BY THE HOUSE FOR A POP-UP STORE OPENING JUNE 15TH. ITS WHITE FAÇADE EVOKES THE TRADITIONAL ARCHITECTURE OF THE CYCLADIC ISLANDS OF GREECE, WHILE ITS SPARE GEOMETRIC LINES BLEND INTO THE NATURAL LANDSCAPE.
IT BOASTS A NUMBER OF EXCLUSIVE PIECES DESIGNED BY MARIA GRAZIA CHIURI. THE INSCRIPTION “J’ADIOR MYKONOS” IS KNITTED INTO STRIPED BODYSUITS AND CASHMERE SWEATERS TO BE WORN WITH PLEATED TULLE SKIRTS. FIVE SILK TWILL MITZAH SCARVES AND FOUR COTTON STOLES FEATURE THIS EXCLUSIVE SIGNATURE. THE TOTE OF THE SEASON, THE DIOR BOOK TOTE, HAS BEEN EMBROIDERED WITH THE NAME OF THE ISLAND, WHILE BRACELETS, SANDALS AND BALLERINA PUMPS HAVE BEEN WOVEN WITH “CHRISTIAN DIOR MYKONOS”.
THREE DIOR OBLIQUE ZIPPED POUCHES, TWO DIORCLUB1 VISORS, TWO BASEBALL CAPS AND BERETS WILL ALSO RECEIVE AN EXCLUSIVE ADVANCE UNVEILING IN THE BOUTIQUE.
Out on the heath, refined and assertive silhouettes capture the moment.
They pass by. A silk carré as a flag, a losange in the wind. Scarf belted, silk on skin, wrapped
in a coat, bag in hand. Car coat in leather and corduroy, ribbed fur, woven checks, remeshed cashmere, pleated leather, mirror-effect, quilted. They stride out in technicolour boots.
Garance red, chestnut brown, cork beige, blush red, Shetland blue, Umber brown, cyan and yellow ochre. Three darts accentuate the waist, a basculated back equestrian jacket, a rug becomes a coat, a scarf a dress, and a bag a portrait.
As Brooks Brothers celebrates its bicentennial, the oldest American retailer takes a look back at its history and heritage and revisits those iconic product innovations that have allowed the brand to remain both modern and timeless for the past 200 years.
Summer 2018 collection begins with a softened aspect combining a subdued color palette of vista blue, ivory, stormy grey with sophisticated tones of lavender, frost grey, indigo and navy and warmed up with earth tones from beige to brown to greens. Inspiration for the collection derives from the elegant and chic tropical town of Palm Beach, where one of Brooks Brothers ’first ever branch store locations outside of New York debuted in 1924 and a favorite destination of acclaimed high society photographer, Slim Aarons. Sand, water, and lush palm fronds fill the backgrounds of Aaron’s photographs and are referenced throughout the collection. Similarly, the colors in this collection begin with sandy neutrals paired with white, blues and tropical prints. A navy linen cotton sport coat is paired with a white stripe linen sport shirt and tan cotton chinos; a white Irish linen sport shirt is shown with a tonal palm print; an indigo paisley print chambray sport shirt can be seen with a white cotton chino pant; and a vintage bomber jacket in seersucker is combined with a color block polo and white cotton chino short. Moving further north, summers in New England offer classic Americana style.
Madras and seersucker, originally popularized by Brooks Brothers, are revisited and reflected in a multitude of styles and colors in suiting, sport shirts, patchwork pants and shorts. Madras also inspired a Supima cotton crew in a navy plaid inspired from Brooks Brothers’ archives. This season also sees a re-launch of the iconic button down Fun Shirt – Introduced in the 1970’s, this archival favorite was originally created with leftover fabrics in the factory. The new Fun Shirt is available in combinations of oxford solids and stripes as well as ginghams and the nostalgic candy striped broadcloth- a cult classic among st fashion collectors and customers alike.
Throughout the collection subtle but significant innovations such as lighter construction in suits and novelty sport coats, the addition of stretch to many dress shirts and sportswear attest to Brooks Brothers’ two hundred years of innovation and style.
Loro Piana presents the Autumn Winter 2018-19 collection
where timeless elegance flows through gestures of sensual, feminine design
Women’s Autumn Winter 2018-19
In a subtle turn of the tide, the Autumn Winter 2018-19 collection presents an exceptional wardrobe infused with the athletic spirit of urban sophistication. Epitomising an active modernity, this dynamic chapter in Loro Piana’s history expresses an uncompromising dedication to Italian craft in a silhouette touched with graphic flair. Exploring the duality of artisanal perfection and– a rare and exclusive fibre harvested only once in the lifetime of fluid lines, the season embraces ample shapes that cocoon the body in soft and tactile fabrics of the highest quality. Both Cashmere and Baby Cashmere select Hircus kid goats – form the keystone textiles of the Loro Piana universe. Rendered in crisp jewel, pastel, and earth tones from azure and ochre to palest pink and optic white – a rich autumnal palette elevates their luminous weaves with a natural glow.
Throughout the collection, clean lines evoke a streamlined nonchalance, as double-face construction defines outerwear with an unprecedented lightness. Sinuous coats drop off the shoulder to belt at the waist or flare into cape volumes. Reversible and two-toned or encrusted with stripe intarsias, garments are hand-finished and accented with understated hardware. Elsewhere tailored separates exude a relaxed attitude: hinting at sartorial and workwear patterns with the touch of cashmere denim and shearling. In superfine yarns, enveloping knitwear featuring traditional techniques; cable, aran, ribbed and jour d’échelle ladder designs are crafted into feminine sweaters with fluid necklines and flared sleeves. Paired with matching jogging pants or pleated trousers, they create moments of pure comfort.
The new Artemis Bucket bag is a pared-back complement to the Loro Piana wardrobe, its curvilinear design is accented with silver hardware and finished in sumptuous calfskin lined with goat suede. On foot, flat riding boots and heeled city boots rise to the knee in calfskin or suede with a soft snub toe. The waterproof ‘Nuage’ sneaker is crafted from Loro Piana’s Storm System® Cashmere and lined in tonal nappa, creating an all-over monochrome effect.
Kent & Curwen Creative Director, Daniel Kearns grew up listening to The Stone Roses, for him they are a band that established the look and the sound of the 90’s. The music and artwork created by The Stone Roses now forms the inspiration for the Kent & Curwen Spring/Summer 2019 collection which celebrates the feeling of British summertime, iconic British music and British culture.
The official partnership with The Stone Roses includes a limited edition range of T-shirts combining John Squire’s iconic album cover artworks. They are mixed with Kent & Curwen’s vintage sporting iconography evokes the indie attitude of the 90’s era in a modern contemporary wardrobe.
The main Spring Summer 2019 collection features track pants and zip-up training tops modernised and fabricated in neoprene, emblazoned with heroic slogans. Badged bucket hats and cagoules in soft butter leathers provide an upscale take on a vibrant rave aesthetic. Shirts are embroidered with handwritten scrawls evoking end of school term hysteria in anticipation of the summer break.
Kent & Curwen’s signature designs are evident in college scarfs made in Hainsworth cloth that appear as part of lightweight wool sweats and jackets, alongside vibrant loopback knitwear created with oversized patchwork jacquard collegiate crests.
Lightweight outerwear is elevated in brushed organic linen and cotton drills, alongside boot-cut trousers that are introduced in strong block colours with permanent pressed creases.
Kent & Curwen favourites re-appear in the form of the Great Coat in updated lightweight summer cotton and the oversized Edwardian collar shirt, badged and paired with sweats and parkas.
The new house badges are fil-coupé rainbow of the rose and embroidered illustrations of the house signature three lions crest.
For the Ports 1961 pre-fall 2018 collection, creative director Nataša Čagalj and her team were inspired by the fundamentally familiar – things that feel comfortable, that feel real.
Classic, time-honoured garments, the everyday appeal of uniforms and utilitarian clothing, the clichés of femininity – they all add to a contemporary woman’s closet, helping to build a modern wardrobe. Fabrics are sophisticated – velvet, camelhair, wool voile and fine poplins, combined with oversized pearls, chains, diamanté and animaux patterns of zebra and leopard, traditional notions of luxury here remixed. Pearls become closures; diamanté crystal is used for harnesses; chains are integrated into folds and gathers.
Utility informs shapes, with generous cuts and menswear silhouettes, thick ribbed knits and hardy wools. Camouflage is reinterpreted in a foliate jacquard and the lapels of overcoats become a decorative device, buttoned on and off. The colour palette couples feminine and masculine: uniform shades of blue, khaki and tan animated with bright, brilliant injections of lipstick scarlet, electric blue and camomile.
Travel is evoked through movement – fringe animates silhouettes, panels and tabards give a sense of freedom, pleats disrupt surfaces. Meanwhile, the idea of familiarity offers an opportunity to revisit and revise pieces from the archive of Ports 1961 – the classic button-down Oxford shirt, a men’s garment remade for women, is inspired by past styles, from the foundations of the label in the 1960s. Other coat silhouettes are directly influenced by recent collections – new classics, heritage in the making. The familiar, made new.
We dive into the deep blue this summer at Whistles – with the colour of the sky and sea forming the basis of the Pre-Fall collection. All shades are explored – from the swimming pool turquoise that spells sunshine on a wrap dress to the crisp bite of teal on a pleated all-in-one, alongside the hardest working shade of blue: navy, whilst a t ease of Autumns trending brown layers offer a sophisticated tone.
Shapes are loose, with flounces adding a flirty touch to a fluid silhouette with an elegant midi hemline dominating. A subtle sex appeal of body-skimming dresses, shown through the lounge-y feel of asaffron-coloured asymmetric dress, or on vivid c o-ords. With hothouse flowers and a slither of midriff,this is a modern take on tropical glamour, one that works both i n the city and by the sea. A fringed black maxi and a khaki cape back dress are the kind of piece ready for any event a summer diary could throw at it.
This season signature prints play with modern summer florals, blooms cover a sea green wrap dress, while a hibiscus reimagined in turquoise or ochre is unexpected – and transseasonal – when it comes with a backdrop of polka dots. F ind it in a blouse or a wide-legged jumpsuit and on asweeping floor length maxi dress. A micro-daisy, meanwhile, adds a touch of whimsy, on a wide-sleevedmidi-dress or ruffled mini.
As well as our signature jumpsuit – this season reworked in linen and delicat e jacquards, with asweetheart neckline – separates are offered to mix and match. Wide-legged is the trouser shape for 2018, with belted paperbag waist, pinstriped or classic denim options, perfectly paired with a summer knit to add a sculptural feel. A one-shouldered shape is an investment that comes with effortless impact.