BERLUTI | HIDDEN PLACE

It is under the subtlest, quietest appearances that the most vibrant details come to light. Amid black sand and silvery rocks, this season’s most striking pieces stand out as a manifesto.

 Icelandic magma stones and black sand beaches are the perfect backdrop for Haider Ackermann’s Fall/ Winter 2018 Collection for Berluti. An ode to introspection and stillness in an often strident world, it focuses on pure shapes and clean pieces which nonetheless hide in them a rich array of luxurious details, fabrics and finishing touches. An eye-catching dusty pink wool blend suit jacket and a double face cashmere and wool coat which, underneath an apparent simplicity – especially when worn with wool satin trousers and a white t-shirt – conceal lizard leather-lined pockets and buffalo horn buttons.

  

      

 

Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2019

Mutiny is in the air. A manifesto for an age of authenticity, Maison Margiela unifies its Défilé women’s and men’s collections in one co-ed show for spring/summer 2019. Creative director John Galliano identifies the non-conformist values of a defiant new generation and interprets them in dressmaking for a redefined world. Impelled by a riotous fin-de-siècle – the revolt of a new era – a generational community takes form: mutinists, an esprit de corps rooted in self-expression, freedom and truth, liberated from conventional concepts of character.

A desire to break free from binary stigmatisation motivates the detection of genderless wardrobe staples: the overcoat, the caban, the cape. In contrast, classically gender-specific garments are mutinied through transformative deconstruction. It materialises in figurative ways of cutting, expressed in a constant search for truth amid the curated imagery with which we surround ourselves. Decortiqué – the house term for reducing a garment to its core – morphs with the trans-mutativenomadic cutting defined in the Artisanal collection. Here, the memory of one garment is cut illustratively into another, effectively altering its conventional values, and the new decortiqué comes to life.

Blurring the lines between real and unreal, skirts mutate into capes cut up into the motifs of coats or smoking jackets. Through graphic incisions in millefeuille, a garment with the properties of a dress reads like a trench coat. Appropriating the inappropriate, lace shift dresses bonded with transparent georgette invoke the memory of swimwear. Padding accentuates the detailing of garments such as shoulder panels, cuffs and bows. Through slits at the back of the shoulder, tailoring and dresses are swathed in the sleeves of knitwear, nodding at the principle of dressing in haste. Founded in the idea of reverse dressing, the memory of party dresses and bow tops adorn jackets associated with the classic men’s wardrobe.

Informed by Artisanal codes, the collection proposes an authentic wardrobe for a revaluated approach to identity, embodied by a global tribe of mutinists. In his first fragrance for Maison Margiela, John Galliano distils the values of a new generation into an entrancing and glamorous parfum of change, absorbed in an intoxicating spirit of creativity and courage. Mutiny is unveiled.

“New communities are brought to the surface when we detect, celebrate and learn from their perspectives. This is, above all, a statement of compassion. Creativity is our Mutiny.” –Maison Margiela

STELLA MCCARTNEY

::: Summer 2019 Runway Show in Paris

Bringing together strength and softness, celebrating the bold and the feminine, Summer 2019 encapsulates the laid-back attitude of the quintessential Stella McCartney woman.

A spectrum of washed-out neons and dirty pastels—from bleached fluro lemonade to spearmint—feel classically Stella, eased with splashes of light khaki, nude and dream blue. These refreshing, highly-charged hues herald summer.

Swim-inspired jumpsuits in second-skin neoprene cover the body with wallpaper florals. Their silhouettes feel at once athletic and polished. Boyfriend blazers in lightweight linen and sustainable viscose are thrown over vivid organic cotton tie-dye T-shirts, offering a new perspective on summer tailoring. Knitted lace becomes commanding in orange and bright teal.

Organic denim becomes a statement as a jumpsuit and wide-legged trousers are finished with graphic ocean blue tie-dye. Knitwear is relaxed and undone, as chunky melanges, sliced openings and raw seams drape effortlessly. This natural ease continues through handworked yarns, oversized buttons and embroidered twill inserts.

Masculine meets feminine as cargoes and flight suits are borrowed from the boys. A football shirt in a soft, fine-gauge knit falls loosely, a structured shirt is constrained to emphasise the body and a shell suit is presented in pale blue ECONYL® recycled nylon.

 

Weightless dresses with soft pleats and short hemlines feel ethereal and effortlessly sexy, while slip dresses are enhanced with customisable extensions. A glittering lurex dress in sustainable viscose is modernised with elasticated shirring and flowing sleeves.

 

Shoes complement the ready-to-wear palette, presented in soft pastels and nudes. Ballet flats are reinterpreted with unstructured fabrics, pull-tie ruching and chiselled toes. T-bar sandals are barely there and wavy waxed-cord flats further reflect the details of the clothing. The signature Eclypse sneaker is reinvented in bleached fluro orange.

For men, the palette, tie-dye effect and strong tailoring continue throughout, with a subtle difference in attitude. Trousers and drawstring shorts are covered in all-over florals, while jackets and trenches get the summer treatment in airy technical cotton twill.

Bags continue the relaxed mood in canvas and slouchy Eco Alter-Nappa. The Stella monogram cluster bags are made for every eventuality in both mini and maxi sizes and drawstring museum totes are elevated with saddle-stitch straps. On jewellery, music notes, a heart, a star and a cannabis leaf make for playful charms. Turbo-wrap sunglasses are amped-up in sporty colours.

MONCLER PIERPAOLO PICCIOLI

In pursuit of hieratic purism, Pierpaolo Piccioli created graphic shapes that are as mystic as they are futuristic. His Medieval Madonnas seen through space-age lenses merge form with essence, which for Pierpaolo is the very definition of purity. Pierpaolo stripped the classic duvet to the bare essence. A-line silhouettes ooze a couture feel while keeping the sense of functionality which is a Moncler pillar. The collection encompasses zip-up hooded capes, both long and short, and skirts, complete with padded duvet spats and padded duvet gloves. Functionality is idealized to an nth: Pierpaolo worked solely with Moncler’s basic down filled nylon, further highlighting the idea of reducing garments to the essence. Pieces become the building blocks of high-impact graphic looks. The sum of elements is highlighted by the contrast of saturated colors. Items come in a pictorial palette of ivory, black, amethyst, imperial yellow, bright green, orange, red and cherry red. Hues are meant to be mixed rather than matched. To highlight the sense of angelic spirituality, Pierpaolo worked with monk and artist Sidival Fila, who created the abstract and angelic canvases for the installation.

 

 

CHANEL Code Coco

Concept
In tribute to a story, a style and an allure, the CODE COCO watch features the constantly renewed codes of CHANEL. 
After having unveiled the design in steel in Gabrielle Chanel’s apartment at 31 rue Cambon, Alice Dellal, Soo Joo Park, Nozomi Iijima and Alma Jodorowsky come together at the Ritz Paris to present a new version of the watch in black ceramic. 
In a spirit of fun and light heartedness, they take possession of the other place that Mademoiselle Chanel liked to call home, “The Ritz is my house”. 

 

LOEWE S/S 2019 Women’s Collection

Photo by Kevin Tachman @kevintachman

Photo by Kevin Tachman @kevintachman

Photo by Kevin Tachman @kevintachman

Photo by Kevin Tachman @kevintachman

By reflecting on echoes of early modernism in contemporary art today, Jonathan Anderson posits the LOEWE Spring Summer 2019 Women’s show inside a simulated exhibition construct at the Maison de l’UNESCO in Paris. Entering through the recreated façade of experimental London gallery SIGNALS (1964-66), the restored mid-century rooms play host to a sequence of kinetic, sonic and fibre art experiences.

Preceded by the textural blur of Lara Favaretto’s spinning car wash brushes, rustic woven baskets by LOEWE Craft Prize finalist Joe Hogan are placed around an adjoining room. A third space hosts a symphony of record players cradling ceramics by Ryoji Koie, and a fourth is overrun with floating soap bubbles.

Placed within this conceit the collection bristles with a Brutalist hedonism, where matte, raw textiles are elevated by swathes of opulent colour in an inky, aquarelle palette. Framed by whipcord collars in exotic leathers, the silhouette curves and

inflates in dynamic tent volumes, creating odd intimacies between fabric and skin. Bishop, bell, and Juliet sleeves balloon on ruched tops and fisherman sweaters, whilst crinkled technique is applied to waffled jacquard and fine lambskin ensembles.

Wildean puffs of ostrich feather bristle against humble topstitched gabardine, mimicking the lattice fringe scarves embedded (like racing stripes) down tunics and blouses. Gathered by smocking and padded inlays, puff dresses in poplin and broderie anglaise explore suspended asymmetries, and foamy cotton muslin is patchworked with rich LOEWE suede.

Joe Hogan’s influence is apparent across the LOEWE accessories collection, as the Puzzle bag appears in woven calfskin and the Gate bag is thatched in straw. The plaited Kite bag cascades with leather fringe, and new baskets explore floral raffia in natural and multicoloured weaves.

loewe.com

BOSS PRESENTS THE ‘MADE IN GERMANY’ CAPSULE COLLECTION

Launching with the Fall/Winter 2018 season, the ‘Made in Germany’ capsule from BOSS – designed with German precision and crafted from Italian fabrics – that builds on the brand’s DNA of high-end tailoring. Designed and made at the brand’s headquarters in Germany, with a specific focus on fabric, the pieces are expertly crafted from materials developed exclusively for BOSS by heritage Italian mills. This collection, worn by  #BOSSMANOFTODAY Greater China Ambassador Mr. Wallace Huo (霍建華) , includes a pure Italian cotton shirt, burgundy-coloured drawstring-waist suit in lightweight twill and a tailored coat in striking bonded check. His dapper look perfectly embodies the brand’s unique essence of classic yet understated luxury.
This capsule collection is exclusively sold in Canton Road & Macau Four Seasons store only.

KENDALL JENNER IS LONGCHAMP’S MODERN AMAZON IN THE WINTER 2018 ADVERTISING CAMPAIGN

Alongside her starring role in The Encounter, the mini-film celebrating her announcement as Longchamp’s new ambassador, super model Kendall Jenner is making her debut in print as the face of the brand’s Winter 2018 advertising campaign.

Shot by David Sims and styled by Sara Moonves, the campaign portrays Kendall as a “21st-century Amazon” – dynamic, independent and empowered – at the same time as it positions Longchamp as a complete lifestyle brand through an equal focus on leather goods, accessories and ready-to-wear.

The spirit of the campaign is notable for its youth, freshness and sensuality. Each of the three double-page spreads juxtaposes two visuals, a portrait and a silhouette, in a dynamic layout which highlights different facets of the “modern Amazon”. Kendall is by turns feisty in a lamb and rabbit-fur coat with black and orange zigzag stripes, sexy in a fluid velvet tuxedo, and irreverent in a sumptuous shearling coat which showcases Longchamp’s heritage of leather craftsmanship. In each visual, she wears a variation on the season’s star Amazone bag, as if to make the point that the three moods are all expressions of one and the same personality.

Just as The Encounter celebrates values of dynamism, individuality, creativity and authenticity which Longchamp shares with Kendall and the generation of millennials she connects with, so this new print campaign is resolutely forward-looking, reaching out to women everywhere in a spirit of freedom and modernity. The Longchamp Autumn 2018 print campaign with Kendall Jenner, comprising single and double-page spreads, as well as a variety of outdoor formats, had broken worldwide in August 2018.

COACH FALL 2018

INTRODUCING THE DREAMER “IT” BAG AND PRESENTING A NEW DARK ROMANCE

WITH A POP-UP IN HONG KONG

Coach presents the debut of Dreamer, its new “IT” bag, perfectly matched to the romantic styling of its American-gothic themed Fall 2018 ready-to-wear collection — available at its new pop-up store at Pacific House, Central, from August 28 to October 17, 2018.

Coach’s Dreamer bag is an elegant and effortless style inspired by romantics and the endless possibilities of New York City. Touted as a “take-everywhere” bag already favored by the likes of Selena Gomez, Kiko Mizuhara and Guan Xiaotong, the three-compartment satchel in glove-tanned leather is available in three sizes — Dreamer, Dreamer 21, Dreamer 36 — and features modern hardware and a signature charm.

The latest Coach Fall 2018 ready-to-wear collection enchants with a spectral charm, where goth and supernatural toughness make for a twisted, dark romance. Feminine floral dresses move with gossamer effect, while plush shearling layers meet embroidered details with jagged edges and mystical symbols. Explore the tension between New York City and the American Southwest, where nature transposes to the urban setting to create a new vocabulary.

The Coach Dreamer Pop-Up invites shoppers to participate in a special interactive retail experience, which includes a playful digital photo-booth and surprise gift-vending machine:

  • To join the photo-booth fun, fans simply need to visit the Coach Dreamer microsite, create their own photo-invitation card, and share on their Facebook timeline — which entitles them to redeem a magnetic boomerang photo giveaway at the store.
  • With purchases made at the pop-up, shoppers can receive a special surprise at the Coach gift-vending machine.

To celebrate the Coach Dreamer Pop-Up grand opening, American artist Chelsea Champlain — whose painterly mystic roses, moths and floral skulls adorn the new Dreamer collection — will attend the party on August 30, to live-paint on Dreamer bags.

BOSS x Michael Jackson

HUGO BOSS launches “BOSS x Michael Jackson” capsule under its core brand BOSS, this project is supported by a distinctive social media campaign using the hashtag#BOSSxMichaelJackson.

Designed to celebrate the King of Pop on what would have been his 60th birthday, BOSS will release a new edition of the iconic suit that Michael Jackson wore on the cover of his game-changing album, “Thriller”.  This new version of the suit will be limited to 100 pieces globally, each one individually numbered.  The re-edition picks up the 80s revival and the current retro trend in fashion. The contemporary, slim-fit design references the original suit’s silhouette, fabric and details throughout and is entirely designed and made by expert tailors at the brand’s headquarters in Germany.

Next to a new edition of the iconic Michael Jackson “Thriller” white suit, three unisex T-shirts, each featuring iconic moments in Michael Jackson’s career, round off the capsule, which pays tribute to the pop legend as both an artist and a style icon.