Mutiny is in the air. A manifesto for an age of authenticity, Maison Margiela unifies its Défilé women’s and men’s collections in one co-ed show for spring/summer 2019. Creative director John Galliano identifies the non-conformist values of a defiant new generation and interprets them in dressmaking for a redefined world. Impelled by a riotous fin-de-siècle – the revolt of a new era – a generational community takes form: mutinists, an esprit de corps rooted in self-expression, freedom and truth, liberated from conventional concepts of character.
A desire to break free from binary stigmatisation motivates the detection of genderless wardrobe staples: the overcoat, the caban, the cape. In contrast, classically gender-specific garments are mutinied through transformative deconstruction. It materialises in figurative ways of cutting, expressed in a constant search for truth amid the curated imagery with which we surround ourselves. Decortiqué – the house term for reducing a garment to its core – morphs with the trans-mutativenomadic cutting defined in the Artisanal collection. Here, the memory of one garment is cut illustratively into another, effectively altering its conventional values, and the new decortiqué comes to life.
Blurring the lines between real and unreal, skirts mutate into capes cut up into the motifs of coats or smoking jackets. Through graphic incisions in millefeuille, a garment with the properties of a dress reads like a trench coat. Appropriating the inappropriate, lace shift dresses bonded with transparent georgette invoke the memory of swimwear. Padding accentuates the detailing of garments such as shoulder panels, cuffs and bows. Through slits at the back of the shoulder, tailoring and dresses are swathed in the sleeves of knitwear, nodding at the principle of dressing in haste. Founded in the idea of reverse dressing, the memory of party dresses and bow tops adorn jackets associated with the classic men’s wardrobe.
Informed by Artisanal codes, the collection proposes an authentic wardrobe for a revaluated approach to identity, embodied by a global tribe of mutinists. In his first fragrance for Maison Margiela, John Galliano distils the values of a new generation into an entrancing and glamorous parfum of change, absorbed in an intoxicating spirit of creativity and courage. Mutiny is unveiled.
“New communities are brought to the surface when we detect, celebrate and learn from their perspectives. This is, above all, a statement of compassion. Creativity is our Mutiny.” –Maison Margiela