For the Ports 1961 pre-fall 2018 collection, creative director Nataša Čagalj and her team were inspired by the fundamentally familiar – things that feel comfortable, that feel real.
Classic, time-honoured garments, the everyday appeal of uniforms and utilitarian clothing, the clichés of femininity – they all add to a contemporary woman’s closet, helping to build a modern wardrobe. Fabrics are sophisticated – velvet, camelhair, wool voile and fine poplins, combined with oversized pearls, chains, diamanté and animaux patterns of zebra and leopard, traditional notions of luxury here remixed. Pearls become closures; diamanté crystal is used for harnesses; chains are integrated into folds and gathers.
Utility informs shapes, with generous cuts and menswear silhouettes, thick ribbed knits and hardy wools. Camouflage is reinterpreted in a foliate jacquard and the lapels of overcoats become a decorative device, buttoned on and off. The colour palette couples feminine and masculine: uniform shades of blue, khaki and tan animated with bright, brilliant injections of lipstick scarlet, electric blue and camomile.
Travel is evoked through movement – fringe animates silhouettes, panels and tabards give a sense of freedom, pleats disrupt surfaces. Meanwhile, the idea of familiarity offers an opportunity to revisit and revise pieces from the archive of Ports 1961 – the classic button-down Oxford shirt, a men’s garment remade for women, is inspired by past styles, from the foundations of the label in the 1960s. Other coat silhouettes are directly influenced by recent collections – new classics, heritage in the making. The familiar, made new.