A port of call. The spring/summer 2018 collection takes inspiration from Ports 1961 – its actual history, and an invented heritage, the spirit of travel conjured by its name alone.
Creative Director Nataša Čagalj and her design team express this notion through a voyage from idea to idea, combining references to different cultures and locales, but also by juxtaposing and fusing contrasting elements – travelling within your own wardrobe. Opposites
are attractive – this collection represents their marriage.
Masculinity and femininity are key pole. Italian men’s suiting fabrics, uniforms and tailoring shapes are used to contrast with hyper-feminine elements – organdy embroidered with naive flowers, soft pleats and girlish pinafores. The contrasts complement. Men’s handkerchief form a decorative motif, oddly feminine when used as prints or fabric applications; robe-style coats have a modern fluidity and ease.
Evocative of a sense of movement and change, clothes offer wearers the opportunity to transforms. Panels button on and off, hems are wired to roll, garments can be reversed. Each outfit allows the wearer a chance to compose their look – everything is individual.
That individuality at Ports 1961 translates to a sense of the human hand. The artisanal is key. Hand-woven squares form an abstract decoration and raffia is knitted into sweaters. The imperfection expressive of the human touch is here, celebrated, with intentionally creased and manipulated fabrics. They contrast with the precision of techno-satins and fully-fashioned knits, created without seams – more contrast, between nature and man, hand and machine. A beauty can be found in both.
Accessories echo the collection’s feel of hybrid – specifically between the wardrobes of men and women. Cuban heels contest with a pointed, feminine vamp in cosmetic colours; a loosely-woven men’s leather brogue becomes a lattice mule. All the shoes have low heels, affording free movement.
A journey begins.