A youthful spirit energizes a collection where eccentricity melds with a sensual, effortless glamour. A trippy, escapist mood permeates; hallucinogenic light projections land softly, distorting and recalibrating the clothes and models. Film work is reminiscent of Exploding Plastic Inevitable, Andy Warhol’s 1966 experimental film screenings and dance performances staged with his coterie of dissident creatives. Continuing the story of New York as a crucible of ideas and creativity, the Spring 18 collection is presented in the birthplace of the brand.
Spontaneous and expressive, the collection evokes a free-spirited, nonconformist woman. Synthetic, vivid colors charge decadent hand-painted florals, and graphic spots and stripes; a signature brand mix. Movement through dance is illustrated in aqueous bias-cut dresses, power stretch modern fabrics, and details such as voluminous smocking and balloon sleeves.
Characterful and unconventional, a modern romantic outlook is reflected in the collection that carries a dreamy fluidity. One of Warhol’s subversive and imaginative muses, Factory girl Jane Forth is long admired by chief creative officer Jonathan Saunders for her distinctive beauty and off-kilter style. Forth was founder Diane von Furstenberg’s first model in the Seventies, and her individualism echoes in the collection.
A dichotomy exists in traditional artisanal screen-printed techniques used on technical nylons and innovative, custom-developed specialty textiles, rich in texture and dimension: screen-printed lurex, buoyant organza with a woven stripe, liquid-like 3mm sequin fabric.
Bold Nineties rave colors of acid green and purple infiltrate a nostalgic palette of spearmint, teal, juniper, lavender, and black. Lean flares are cut in a woven tricolor modern cord that gives the impression of shine. Outerwear: a cropped suede jacket in cobalt and chestnut blue; a belted caramel leather patent trench worn with a lilac fur collar. Silk fringing recalls the languid and seductive masculine movement integral to rebellious rock and roll: a vivid yellow bias-cut skirt comes in silk satin and bespoke web lace with a dramatic double layer fringe.
Footwear includes elevated platforms and decorative flatforms, knee-high lace-up boots in velvet, and delicate sandals. The new Bon Journée bag is introduced in multiple and unexpected fabrications; including bicolor leather, watersnake, and with half-moon medallion hardware. Sunglasses have red and rainbow gradiated lenses. Jewelry riffs on eclectic and collected talismanic charms, with agate stones and metallic feathers framed by oversized hoops on earrings and chokers.
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