28 Jan 2026 By DREW KIM
DIOR SPRING-SUMMER 2026 HAUTE COUTURE SHOW
When you copy nature, you always learn something. Nature offers no fixed conclusions, only systems in motion – evolving, adapting, enduring. Haute couture belongs to this same logic. It is a laboratory of ideas, where experimentation is inseparable from craft, and time-honoured techniques are not preserved as relics but activated as living knowledge. It is also a way of seeing – an interpretive lens through which the present is examined, reassembled and imagined anew. Urgent. Subtle. Precise.
Dior Creative Director Jonathan Anderson is drawn to objects marked by time: materials that carry memory, utility or prior meaning. Meteorites and fossils shaped over millennia, 18th century fabrics and portrait miniatures are approached not as precious artefacts, but as catalysts which, once reworked, acquire renewed relevance and function.
This collection, his first foray into couture, is constructed like a wunderkammer – a place where museum-quality pieces and natural wonders are gathered and recontextualised, offering a new means of preservation through transformation. For Anderson, couture too, is without guarantee; it is an endangered form of knowledge that survives only through practice. To create it is to protect it.
Nature meets artifice and the old welcomes the new. Bunches of cyclamen, freshly gathered and given to Anderson by a former Creative Director of Dior, John Galliano, become poetic batons of creative continuity and are considered alongside the anthropomorphic work of ceramic artist Magdalene Odundo. Lines flow sinuously on structured shapes or are draped gently around the body, magnifying curves and underlining gestures. A grammar of new forms ensues, expanding the House’s vocabulary whilst echoing its foundations.
The couturier’s handwork transforms the micro into the macro, and vice versa: realistic flowers are cut from light silks or miniaturised in dense embroideries; balloon tops are veiled in net; shredded chiffon and organza are layered like feathers. An interest in manual dexterity brings knitwear into the fold, expanding the language of couture and fostering further experimentation. Moulded handbags make their debut in Dior Haute Couture as sculptural objects that inspire new ways to carry oneself. Each piece is conceived as a small wonder. To wear couture is to collect it, and to carry forward – with empathy – the mindset that created it.
取材於自然,總能有所領悟。自然萬物絕非一成不變,而是在流動中生生不息,歷經演化與適應,終而恆久長存。高訂時裝亦然,它是一座充滿創意的實驗室,實驗精神與工藝密不可分。傳統技藝並非高踞殿堂的文物,而是鮮活的知識。它更是一種詮釋的視角,將當下審視、拆解並重構,賦予嶄新的想像。迫切、微妙、精確。
Dior創意總監Jonathan Anderson深受承載歲月印記的物件所吸引,鍾情蘊含回憶、實用價值或既有意義的素材。在他眼中,歷經數千年淬鍊的隕石與化石、18世紀的織物與微型肖像畫並非僅供瞻仰的文物,而是激發創意的催化劑——只要重新詮釋,便獲得嶄新的意義和功能。
創意總監首度涉足高訂時裝,將系列構想成一座珍奇屋,匯聚博物館級藏品及自然奇觀,為其賦予嶄新意涵,活現蛻變之姿,開創全新的保存方式。對Anderson而言,高訂時裝同樣沒有必然受保障的未來;這門瀕危技藝唯有實踐方能延續。創作即守護。
大自然與藝術交融,傳統與創新相迎。前任Dior創意總監John Galliano曾親手採摘並贈予Anderson的仙客來花束,如今化作後者接棒傳承創意、詩意盎然的象徵,更與陶藝家Magdalene Odundo具擬人神韻的作品並行不悖。線條在立體造型之上蜿蜒流動,或輕柔垂墜於身體周圍,讓身體的曲線與肢體的律動更鮮明突出。全新的演繹方式隨之形成,在延伸品牌語彙的同時呼應其核心本質。
高訂時裝工匠的精湛手藝在微觀與宏觀之間顯得游刃有餘:栩栩如生的花卉從絲綢裁出或濃縮成密集的刺繡,紋理豐富的絲線則被手工編織成斑駁的斜紋軟呢,並在蓬鬆的輪廓上覆蓋一層如面紗般的網層。針織服飾正式走進高級時裝世界,頌揚靈巧精湛的手工藝與實驗精神。Dior高訂時裝系列首度推出注模塑形手袋,雕塑般的輪廓啟發嶄新的佩戴方式。每件作品都宛如一件袖珍瑰寶。穿著高訂時裝等同收藏藝術,並在情感共鳴中,承襲創作者的思維脈絡。
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