A Taste of Kansai Comfort Arrives on Gough Street at Kukyoku Shokudo (玖鉞食堂)

A new chapter in Japanese comfort dining has quietly opened its doors on Gough Street. Kukyoku Shokudo (玖鉞食堂), a Kansai-style oden izakaya, brings the soulful warmth of Japan’s most beloved winter dish to the heart of Central — guided by Japanese chef Eto San, whose four decades of culinary experience are distilled into every simmering pot.

Chef Eto has lived in Hong Kong for over 23 years, yet his cooking remains deeply rooted in the flavours of Kansai. At Kukyoku Shokudo, he introduces a refined yet heartfelt approach to oden — one that prioritises clarity, balance and depth over intensity.

The Art of Kansai-Style Oden

Unlike the darker, soy-forward oden often associated with Tokyo, Kansai-style oden is defined by its lightness. Here, the broth is built from premium kombu, salt and light soy sauce, resulting in a clear, gently sweet base that allows each ingredient to speak for itself.

Chef Eto arrives at the restaurant every morning to tend personally to the broth. Inspired by Japan’s traditional eel restaurants, he uses a continuously replenished soup base — preserving and enriching the same stock day after day, while adding freshly prepared broth daily. Over time, the soup absorbs the essence of its ingredients, growing deeper and more nuanced without losing its delicate character.

The menu features over 20 oden selections. Standouts include the celebrated Awaji Island onion, prized in Japan for its natural sweetness, slow-simmered over three days and finished with bonito flakes and house sauces. Other highlights range from tender beef tendon skewers and thick-cut Japanese daikon to seasonal abalone, tiger prawns, and a variety of house-made classics such as lotus root cakes, chicken tsukune, fish cakes, onsen-style eggs, konnyaku and fried tofu. New creations are introduced regularly, encouraging repeat visits and discovery.

Izakaya Plates with Playful Spirit

Beyond oden, Kukyoku Shokudo offers a thoughtful selection of izakaya-style dishes designed for relaxed sharing. Thinly sliced octopus served semi-cooked with wasabi stems and Awaji onion is clean and refreshing, while the whimsical octopus-shaped Vienna sausages nod to nostalgic Kansai comfort food.

House-made potato salad, marinated grilled chicken wings and a distinctive “sake thief” cheese — blended with bonito and sea bream — pair effortlessly with the restaurant’s extensive drinks list. For colder evenings, a seasonal miso-braised beef and beef tendon stew provides deep, warming comfort, built upon the same oden broth and enriched with two types of house-blended miso.

The Cult Favourite: Oden Dashi Cocktails

A must-try at Kukyoku Shokudo is the Dashi-wari, a rising trend in Japanese izakayas. Rather than a conventional cocktail, shochu is gently mixed with hot oden broth, creating a savoury, umami-rich drink that warms from within. The kombu and bonito notes bloom with the alcohol, offering a uniquely soothing, layered drinking experience — especially popular during winter months.

Handmade Rice Balls, Just Like Home

To complete the meal, the restaurant offers a range of handmade onigiri. Alongside classic fillings, grilled rice balls brushed with house soy sauce are served with toppings such as marinated egg yolk, spicy miso, mentaiko and mushrooms. Ingredients are served separately, ensuring each bite remains balanced — a small but thoughtful detail that reflects Chef Eto’s philosophy.

For Chef Eto, cooking is inseparable from emotion. Having made Hong Kong his home, he draws inspiration not only from Japanese tradition but also from the simple joy of feeding others. “Seeing customers smile while enjoying my food is the greatest reward,” he says. At Kukyoku Shokudo, that warmth is felt in every bowl of broth.

Kukyoku Shokudo (玖鉞食堂)

Address: 9 Gough Street, Central, Hong Kong
Opening Hours:
Tuesday to Sunday: 12:00–3:00pm, 6:00–10:00pm
(Closed Mondays)
Tel: 9848 2348