Berluti | 2020 Fall Collection

A versatile wardrobe is at the core of the Fall 2020 Collection by Kris Van Assche. As comfortable in classic heritage pieces as he is in trendy, innovative ones, the Berluti man proves modern timelessness is inseparable from true chic.

This season’s focus is on mixing and matching different styles. Berluti’s latest collection includes a variety of technical fabrics and borrows cuts and details from classic military garments, filtering them through the Maison’s unique savoir-faire and identity. The result is an array of exceptional, timeless pieces.

百搭衣櫥是Kris Van Assche所打造的2020秋季系列的核心理念。正如憑藉前衛創新的作品引領潮流一樣,這位Berluti創意總監對於經典的傳承同樣駕輕就熟,本季詮釋出當代經典與真正時尚密不可分的深刻奧義。

Berluti最新系列以不同風格的混搭為主題,運用豐富的科技面料,在借鑑經典軍裝剪裁與細節設計的同時,注入品牌獨具一格的匠心精神與品牌特性,最終成就了這一系列品質卓越的永恆傑作。

Functional, eclectic and light, outerwear is always easy to wear. Parkas – knee-length or short – take on the large pockets and zip details of a modernized field jacket and mix cotton and nylon with Scritto-embossed leather elements. A classic raincoat’s technical fabric makes it water repellent and exceptionally light, while a formal double-faced wool and cashmere coat is deconstructed to make it softer and more comfortable. Leather is ubiquitous, taking a down jacket from classic to one-of-a-kind thanks to its embossed details and exclusive nylon-and-wool fabric. Quilted lamb leather is the star material of a raincoat and a short jacket featuring military-inspired details. Leather jackets go from the patina blouson with an elasticated hem and the shearling-collared, supple deer skin aviator jacket – the ultimate Berluti pieces – to the statement-making patchworked jacket with a bonded membrane and the nubuck suede perfecto with a brand new “Deep Sea Blue” hand-applied patina effect. A teddy jacket mixes wool gabardine and leather sleeves with embossed Scritto, and features terry cloth logo patches.

外套兼具輕便實穿、不拘一格的特點,易於穿搭。及膝或短身的Parka大褸採用現代外套輪廓的口袋與拉鍊設計細節,結合純棉和尼龍面料與Scritto圖紋皮革元素相得益彰。經典雨衣所採用的科技面料兼備防水與輕盈的特性,同時雙面正裝大褸採用羊毛混羊絨,被賦予更為柔軟與舒適的觸感。皮革元素如今被廣泛應用,壓花細節與獨有的尼龍羊毛混紡面料成就出獨一無二的經典款羽絨服。絎縫羊皮可謂製作雨衣和軍裝短款外套的常用面料。皮褸款式豐富,從以Patina古法染制的束腰短褸,到羊毛翻領設計的鹿皮Aviator外套,再到個性鮮明的皮革拼接外套以及採用全新深海藍(Deep Sea Blue)色調作Patina渲染的Nubuck麂皮騎士外套,一應俱全。Teddy外套以羊毛華達呢為主體面料,皮革衣袖飾以Scritto印花圖紋,並有標誌性的毛圈面料logo飾片點綴其中。

Leather is also the star of the season’s patina suit, made from calf skin and complete with an Ice Black patina blending grey and black tones. Elsewhere, tailoring oscillates between the formal and the casual, and while the sleek Alessandro suit – worn over a silk shirt with an all-over Scritto print – takes on a vibrant cherry shade, a new half-canvas construction travel jacket in naturally wrinkle-free virgin wool can be paired with jogging-inspired tapered trousers or trendy knee-length cargo trousers in Prince of Wales with nylon details. Nylon yokes are also inserted in a military-inspired soft cotton overshirt-and-trousers set.

皮革也是本季Patina染色西裝的重要材質,西裝採用小牛皮面料,經冰黑色(Ice Black)Patina古法染色技藝與灰黑色調混合處理而成。本季的剪裁在正式與休閒之間切換自如:Alessandro光面西裝內搭Scritto圖紋真絲襯衫,令充滿活力的櫻桃色調更為明亮突出;全新的半帆布構造旅行夾克採用天然抗皺初剪羊毛,可搭配錐形慢跑褲或當季的威爾士親王(Prince of Wales)款帶有尼龍細節的及膝工人褲;軍裝款軟棉質外套式襯衫與褲裝套裝中亦貫穿了尼龍拼接的細節。

Casual ready-to-wear pieces creatively embody Berluti’s DNA: a beige military shirt with patch pockets and a virgin wool sweater with pearl rib stitch details are embroidered with terry cloth logos mimicking military badges. Featuring a Scritto jacquard motif, Fairisle sweaters in a wool, cotton and silk blend become statement pieces. A leather crest is applied to a comfortable neoprene hoodie, and jersey tee-shirts are decorated with Berluti’s logo. Even raw denim pieces include an all-over Scritto print on the inside, revealed only when the jeans or jacket sleeves are rolled up.

休閒成衣系列別出心裁地展現出Berluti的品牌DNA:拼接口袋的米色軍裝襯衫與帶有珍珠羅紋針織細節的初剪羊毛毛衣均繡有軍徽式的毛圈面料logo;融合羊毛、棉和絲綢混紡的Fairisle毛衣選取標誌性的Scritto圖紋,是彰顯品牌個性的時尚單品;舒適太空棉質感的氯丁橡膠(Neoprene)連帽衛衣鑲以皮革徽章;針織T恤上則飾有Berluti品牌logo;Scritto圖紋甚至呈現於原色牛仔單品的內裡,只有當捲起褲腳或外套衣袖時才會展露細節,頗具巧思。

Alongside Berluti’s emblematic “Alessandro” shoe, made out of a single piece of leather with no visible stitches and embossed with a Scritto Swipe motif, this season’s formal shoes comprise “Démesure”, a lace-up with a diagonal stitch; “Andy” loafers (originally created in 1962 for Andy Warhol) with a Scritto-embellished strap and “Arthur”, a new monk buckle shoe with stitching details on the top, treated with an “Ice Black” patina. An unapologetic fashion statement, the new “Camden” creepers are inspired by rock & roll culture and feature a chunky rubber sole and a square last, coming in Oxford and lace-up boot forms, both in a delicate grained Venezia leather. “Gravity” sneakers are the perfect leisurely choice, with two new variations: a high-top sneaker with a scratch strap – available in the edgy matte texture of Vitello Opaco leather and in “Deep Sea Blue” patinated grained Venezia -, and a low one inspired by classic outdoors shoes.

除了Berluti標誌性Alessandro鞋履 — 這款以整張皮革製作、隱藏縫線細節並飾有Scritto Swipe斜圖紋為特色的經典之作外,本季囊括的其它正裝鞋履還包括:斜紋細節裝飾的Démesure綁帶鞋、鞋舌上飾有Scritto圖紋的Andy樂福鞋 (源自於1962年專門為Andy Warhol打造的鞋款),以及頂部縫線設計、經冰黑色Patina古法染色處理的全新Arthur扣帶鞋。鮮明的潮流態度在Camden新款厚底鞋充分體驗—受到搖滾文化影響,採用厚實的橡膠鞋底與方形鞋頭造型,融合了牛津鞋和綁帶靴的特點,由紋路細膩的Venezia皮革製成。 Gravity休閒鞋本季呈現兩種款式,成為休閒鞋履的不二選擇,一款是有裝飾綁帶的高筒鞋型,採用的Vitello Opaco前衛霧面材質皮革及深海藍Patina古法染色處理的Venezia皮革兩種面料,另一款則是深受經典戶外鞋履啟發的低筒休閒鞋。

This season, Berluti is unveiling its new SIGNATURE Canvas, a coated cotton material printed with a Scritto-inspired motif and a crest. A knowing wink to Berluti’s rich heritage, it is featured in “Odyssée”, a functional travel sailor bag with Venezia leather details, as well as the messenger “Escapade”, the “Explorer” backpack and the versatile tote “Ulysse”, perfect for business and casual moments. The ultimate 48-hour bag, “Aventure”, takes on a Venezia Gloria leather – as supple as nappa and as solid as classic Venezia – and a vivid “Deep Sea Blue” patina. Iconic Berluti bags this season span from the “Journalier” messenger with a full Scritto motif and an “Ice Black” patina, ideal to carry essentials daily, the vertical “Toujours” and the classic “Un Jour” – which, fitting a 15 inch laptop, is the ultimate business bag -, to the trendy and comfortable “Balade” cross body bag in Venezia Gloria and the “Day Out” backpack. Discreetly decorated with a Scritto Swipe and complete with a flap drawstring closure and an “Ice Black” patina, it embodies Berluti’s idea of a modern classic.

本季,Berluti推出全新的SIGNATURE Canvas,這一全新的材質以塗層帆佈為主體,覆面圖紋是以品牌經典Scritto圖紋為靈感的徽章印花。作為對Berluti品牌經典的一次致敬,該系列以「史詩旅程」為主題,貫穿整個Odyssée系列——採用Venezia皮革裝飾的實用旅行水手包、Escapade郵差包、Explorer背囊和百搭的Ulysse手提包都是商務與休閒場合的絕妙之選。全新Aventure旅行袋採用Venezia Gloria皮革,兼具小羊皮的柔軟和經典Venezia皮革的牢固,經明亮的深海藍Patina古法染色處理,不失為48小時商旅的最佳選擇。本季Berluti經典袋款齊全,包括全覆以Scritto圖紋和冰黑色Patina古法染色的Journalier郵差包、直版設計的Toujours公事包、可容納15寸手提電腦的經典Un Jour公事包;美感與舒適完美融合的Venezia Gloria皮革材質Balade斜揹包;以低調的Scritto Swipe圖紋、翻蓋抽繩設計和冰黑色Patina古法染色的Day Out背囊,展現出Berluti對於當代經典的精妙解讀。