23 Jan 2022 By May Ng


What is real today? Perfection is fabricated, imperfection is erased, illusion and displacement are the coordinates.

Determined to define an altered real world, the LOEWE collection proposes that nothing is as it seems and uses flashes of backlit glare to illuminate the assumption. Creative director Jonathan Anderson devises a vision that is straightforward, concise and tightly edited, devoid of immediate seasonal connotations and deliberately pushed into a temporal void of its own, where immediate signs and detectable references do not matter.

The body is the point of arrival and departure, nakedness reproduced in shrunken scale on trompe l’oeil pieces, the elementarity of underwear and base layers exposed as an external self. A new shrunken and frozen silhouette sits close to the torso and legs. Hoops and wires frame movement mid-action, like the body was frozen in performance. Nonsensical dresses protrude in trains, on the front, twisting the body. LEDs and lights illuminate coats, the waistline and the sides of trousers, and profile of shoes, like a glow coming directly from the body being projected outward.

Archetypes of men’s dressing are put under a twisted light. The boxers and briefs, the coat, the jean jacket, the shaggy fur, the mohair pullover, the mackintosh. Displacement brings things to another dimension: sinkholes frame the void onto the surface of coats and bags.
A backlit shell is clutched randomly by a hand. Oiled leather coats are provocatively transparent. Kitschy briefs peek-a-boo under tops. Shearling linings push movement forward on coats.

Bags are capacious totes, the Cubi in nappa leather with sinkholes, a tall and rectangular Amazona. The Flamenco clutch is embellished with shells and reimagined as a soft pair of boots. LEDs illuminate rubber boots. Cherries are polished motifs on square-toed loafers.

Backlit into altered non-perfection, another kind of reality is drawn. A collection that defines a reset by putting the body first and speculating around it.

What is real today?

The collection is presented within Flags, Paris 2022, a site-specific installation by the artists Joe McShea & Edgar Mosa: eighty-seven 2.5×3.5m faceless flags made of nearly 4,000 individually-cut ribbons mounted on 6.5m long aluminum flagpoles and reacting to the movement of models and the audience.

The flags are stripped of meaning, acting as a call to reflection. They are made of thirteen colors chosen to represent the full visible spectrum, arranged randomly so as to make each flag unique.

今時今日,甚麼才是真?完美可以假裝出來,瑕疵可以刪除擦掉,假像與移形換影是現實 的日常。

LOEWE以秋冬男裝系列為變了樣的世界寫下註腳 – 眼見者未為真,耀目的閃燈及背光效果突顯 這主張。創意總監Jonathan Anderson的意念直接簡明,沒有一望而知的季節性元素,故意抽空 了時間觀念,熟識又易辨認的元素不再關鍵。

身軀成為主軸,服裝呈現縮皺裸露的錯覺效果;內衣及打底衫穿在外邊,縮皺線條突出軀幹 及大腿,圈環及金屬線勾勒腹部,就像表演中被冰封的軀體;前後離奇地突起裙襬拉扯扭曲 著身體,LED及燈泡照亮了大衣,腰位,褲側及鞋身,就像身體直接發出光線。


手袋方面有容量充裕的手挽袋,軟皮Cubi袋同樣鑲嵌鋅盤排水口配件,還有直長形 Amazona,Flamenco手提包飾以貝殼,又變身為一款軟皮靴,LED燈照亮橡皮靴,方頭便服鞋 有拋光櫻桃圖案。


時裝展場地佈置《Flags, Paris 2022》是藝術家Joe McShea 及 Edgar Mosa特別為LOEWE創 作的裝置,由87支旗幟組成,動用近4,000條獨立切割的絲帶製作,每支旗面積為2.5×3.5 米,掛在6.5米長的鋁金屬旗桿上,與模特兒及觀眾的動態呼應飄揚。

藝術家抽空了旗幟本身的象徵意義,交由觀眾自己體驗感悟。旗幟由13種顏色絲帶組成,包含 人肉眼可感受的可見光譜,絲帶隨意組合,每面旗幟皆獨一無二。