23 May 2023 By AWAY IN STYLE


一個激發情感的地方——這就是 Maria Grazia Chiuri 心目中的墨西哥。墨西哥被稱作「靈魂之地」,一如它呈現給超現實主義藝術家們那般,從 Leonora Carrington 到 Remedios Varo,以至 Tina Modotti 透過其拍攝的照片捕捉了墨西哥的風景和人文。

Frida Kahlo 這位傳奇人物與這文化仍然有着密切的聯繫,並在 Dior 2024 度假系列演繹其文化特色。這位墨西哥藝術家透過服飾演繹她的體態,其服飾更成為代表作、宣示、控訴、和肯定的象徵。一系列印畫就如收藏着支離破碎軀殼的珍貴首飾盒,或一個隱藏着由蝴蝶蛻變而成爲多種顏色和形式的繭。Dior 品牌檔案中,Andrée Brossin de Méré 所繪的構圖中,有着栩栩如生的飛蛾輪廓。Maria Grazia Chiuri 的靈感來自 Frida Kahlo 的照片,一輯將性別界線扭曲的照片。自她十九歲起,Frida一直愛以男裝的三件套西裝示人,將女性氣質昇華,追求超越知性規範的獨立個性。因此,系列中的西裝正是向她的風格致敬,同時亦透過將傘裙陪襯着傳統束腰外衣演繹 Tehuana 的風俗,其被稱爲 the huipil。Maria Grazia Chiuri 在墨西哥城為此全新系列揭幕,與當地的優秀藝術家再次建立了牢固的聯繫。在共同打造的連身裙和襯衫的原創刺繡中,體現了她與當地藝術家的專長手藝。

一款粉紅色連身裙令人聯想起 Frida Kahlo 在她其中一款自畫像中穿著的服裝。精選的棉、麻布和絲綢蕾絲 ,加上細緻的衣領設計,將針織和黑色絲絨昇華,加上蝴蝶般的提花,令其看似脆弱的精緻魅力進一步提升。多虧了褶飾,裙子以迷人的色調重新演繹絲絨,突顯出盆骨曲線,然後再像花冠般打開。在 toile de Jouy 亞麻布上蝴蝶斑斑起舞,也描畫出墨西哥的動植物,以及鸚鵡、猴子和天堂鳥,更為 Frida Kahlo 的畫作錦上添花。

時裝展在Frida Kahlo曾入讀的學院Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso舉行, 選址反映Maria Grazia Chiuri的個人懷想。就在這裡,Frida Kahlo邂逅她的良師和伴侶Diego Rivera,使此地點更具象徵性。墨西哥女性主義藝術家Elina Chauvet將在這個饒富象徵意義的場地中,為時裝展帶來一場藝術表演。墨西哥是一個以心爲心的國度。這度假系列的情感調節和斑斕色彩演繹出建立在與自然環境緊扣的女性氣質,其中的投入感與輕快感亦爲系列取得平衡。

A constellation of places that spark emotions – this is what Mexico is to Maria Grazia Chiuri. A “place of the soul,” just as it was for surrealist artists, from Leonora Carrington to Remedios Varo, and for Tina Modotti who, through her photographs, captured the landscapes and people of Mexico.

The emblematic figure of Frida Kahlo continues to offer a powerful connection to this culture, celebrated at the heart of the Dior cruise 2024 collection. The Mexican artist transcended her body through her clothes, which became representation, proclamation, protest, and affirmation. Like a precious jewel case for a broken body, a cocoon-case concealing a butterfly meta-morphed into a motif unfolding in multiple shades and forms, through a series of prints. Moths also come to life on the silhouettes, based on a sketch by Andrée Brossin de Méré from the Dior archives. Maria Grazia Chiuri was inspired by photographs of Frida Kahlo bending the rules of gender boundaries. From the age of nineteen, Frida wore a men’s three-piece suit, transgressing her femininity to claim an independence above all intellectual. Suits thus pay tribute to her style while, in counterpoint, echoing the Tehuana custom, full skirts are worn with a traditional tunic: thehuipil. For this new line, unveiled in Mexico City, Maria Grazia Chiuri has once again forged strong ties with local artisans who have excelled. Their expertise shines with original embroideries, co-creations crafted with their ateliers, adorning notably dresses and shirts.

A pink dress reminiscent of the one worn by Frida Kahlo in one of her self-portraits is featured. The captivating beauty of fragility is further enhanced by the variety of cotton, hemp and silk lace selected, by the meticulous designs of the collars sublimating the jersey and black velvet, and by the butterfly-like jacquards. Velvet is revisited in a mesmerizing palette of colors on skirts that, thanks to their pleats, emphasize the hips before opening into corollas. Butterflies also populate the toile de Jouy, illustrating Mexican flora and fauna alongside parrots, monkeys and strelitzias that also illuminate the paintings of Frida Kahlo.

The personal dimension that guided Maria Grazia Chiuri is reflected in the choice of venue for the show: the Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso, where the iconic Mexican painter studied. A symbolic location, where she met Diego Rivera, the mentor, the love of a lifetime. In this privileged location, a performance by Mexican feminist artist Elina Chauvet will take place. Mexico, a country of the heart, expresses – through the emotional modulations and chromatic vivacity of this cruise line – a femininity that is constructed by a relationship with the natural environment, in a balance of engagement and light-heartedness.