ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA XXX
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA XXX 2022夏季系列
THE (NEW) SET
詮釋當下
Zegna一直致力於重塑多樣的服裝。在過往幾季中，Zegna嘗試顛覆既定規則。而今季，Zegna傾心呈獻以「THE (NEW) SET」為藍本的全新夏季系列，以變革之刃設計出流暢飄逸的系列，為世界呈現「新生」風格。在延續Zegna精製剪裁與版型的同時，以創新的面料製作和設計出新意十足的造型，詮釋當下。而在設計背後，品牌運用精妙剪裁的思維，大膽探索設計與廓形的疆界，締造出煥然一新的美學語言。
Zegna集團藝術總監Alessandro Sartori先生不斷探索，將體貼細微的剪裁與創新的面料製作巧妙融合，以銳意開拓的視野打造THE (NEW) SET系列，賦予時裝款式更多表達空間，創造出無限可能。流暢的輪廓搭配鮮明的線條，讓服裝隨著身體的律動而變化，展開一段全新的身體與服裝的對話。以出人意料的大膽色調與面料組合，將傳統的正裝感巧妙轉變為不局限於規則的和諧與靈動。
Alessandro Sartori先生表示︰「我希望在Zegna創造一種以經典的精湛剪裁為基調，但又可以適應現代世界生活節奏的微妙平衡感。為此，我一直想重新詮釋高級成衣剪裁的定義，在賦予身體自由的同時，亦延續Zegna的獨特風格，打造出一系列可輕鬆穿搭而又獨具創新力的單品，展露輕鬆而不刻意的美學風格。」
全新夏季系列以獨特的輕巧感為特點 — 從無領的和服式設計、富功能性的chore coat外套、long dusters外套到oversized外套，以及全新款式的針織衫等，均展現出流動舒適的美學典範。而本季精心選用質地輕盈、細密編織的面料，以及薄如紙張的皮革，沒有任何填充或複雜的結構，勾勒出清晰而精準的輪廓。 俐落的線條打造出流暢舒適的設計，讓您輕鬆駕馭不同的場合。Zegna全新的夏季系列從商務服飾的實用性中汲取靈感，在剪裁中加入新意，將細節放大，例如超大翻蓋口袋及矚目的抽繩設計，突出功能性的同時彰顯鮮活的風格。
全新系列革新地採用混合輪廓設計，結合創新面料，適合不同場合穿搭。選用以植物纖維材質、混紡面料、針織面料，以及 #UseTheExisting時尚可持續面料為主。寬鬆的Boxy外套採用帶襯墊的水洗桑蠶絲面料或如羽毛般輕盈的尼龍面料製成；長款parkas大衣以套染羊毛、桑蠶絲、棉麻和亞麻斜紋面料混紡製作而成。釉面羊毛面料則賦予夏季外套光澤流動的金屬質感；啞光面料則能有效地吸收光線，為炎熱夏日帶來清涼感。經過放大和淡化處理的幾何圖案拼接出逐漸褪色的視覺效果，而以意大利Bielmonte羊毛為原料的混紡面料則呈現出渾然天成般的迷人紋理。厚身棉質衛衣與輕薄內搭服飾，配以胸前可摺疊小口袋的設計，進一步體現出夏季系列的實用性，這一設計理念亦貫穿於本季帶襯墊的紙革材質拖鞋，以及托特袋、帆布工裝風格袋和可摺疊雙肩背包中。整個系列以輕色調為主，呈現出如水般淡潤的色彩組合，以方解石的淡灰色、白色、菊石灰色、樹皮內紋黃色、礦物綠色和柏樹綠色為主調，搭配沉穩的深混凝土灰黑色和啞光黑色，並以天青色、藍色、紫水晶色和深藍色等作點綴。
全新系列以一段引人入勝的影片拉開帷幕，表現出自由與約束之間充滿張力的碰撞與融合。鏡頭流暢地穿梭於一座綠色迷宮之中，以一片昏暗的混凝土叢林作開場，延伸至狹窄空間與廣闊視野，透過人類與自然的凝視，最終浮現出一個全新的場景，原本彼此對立的世界逐漸合而為一，啟寓更美好的未來。
這就是Zegna的「New Set」，為現代世界定製無限可能。
鳴謝：
Alessandro Sartori，Zegna集團藝術總監
4Friends Film，影片製作
Wladimir Schall，音樂製作
Beppe D’Elia for BEAUTICK，化妝及髮型
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA XXX
THE (NEW) SET
TUNED TO THE NEEDS OF TODAY
The reset of categories is an ongoing process at Zegna. Over the past few seasons the slate has been cleaned for a restart that now takes the form of a New Set: an evolutional, fluid code to enter the world again by keeping the connotations of tailoring in both methodology and construction while devising new forms in new fabrications, tuned to the needs of today. The mindset upon which this movement is founded pushes crafting awareness forward to build a new language with new designs and new silhouettes.
Exploring the possibilities of both thoughtful tailoring and innovative fabric-making, Artistic Director Alessandro Sartori draws up the New Set as a scale of possibilities for the individual to adopt and adapt. Fluid volumes and streamlined shapes allow for a new dialogue between clothing, body and gestures. The sense of properness that is a corollary of formality is translated into a harmonious, yet unpredictable use of colours and textures, and a gently non-formal look.
“My aim at Zegna is to create an accord between the essence of tailoring, which is our reason for being, and the rhythm of the modern world. What I have done is a rewiring of luxury crafting, following a flow that frees the man while keeping the distinctiveness, offering pieces that are easy to wear as they are inventive. Effortlessness is the key”, says Alessandro Sartori.
The collection is marked by an utter sense of lightness. Liquid and comfortable silhouettes revolve around collarless kimono shapes, utilitarian chore coats, long dusters, oversized overshirts and a new generation of knitwear. Weightless, tightly woven fabrics and paper-thin leathers allow shapes to show off the clarity and precision of design without any padding or constructions; firmness of line encounters freedom of movement. The New Set is an act of translation that takes inspiration from the practicality and pragmatism of workwear to get a progressive spin on tailoring, with magnified details – oversized pocket flaps, augmented drawstrings – making a statement without forsaking function.
The movement is sealed by the intermingling of shapes and innovative fabrics where vegetal fibres, new blends, jersey and #UseTheExisting fabrics are core. Boxy blazers are cut in padded, washed silks or in featherlight nylons; long parkas come in overdyed wool, silk, hemp and linen twills. Glazed wool lends a liquid, metallic feel to summer coats. Extreme matting captures the light in pragmatic ensembles with a lived feel. Geometric patterns are either magnified and diluted or patchworked into faded compositions, including the unedited blend of ‘Bielmonte’ Italian wool. Thick cotton jumpers and lighter underpinning with a small frontal folding detail further highlight the practicality of the collection, which is carried in the padded paper leather slippers, in the totes and canvas work bags, in the foldable backpacks. Lightness is ultimately also a chromatic matter, conveyed by the watery color palette that amalgamates pale notes of calcite, workwear white, ammonite, under bark, mineral green, cypress with calm tones of dark concrete and matt black and lights up with sudden bursts of skylight, utility blue, amethyst, cobalt.
The collection is presented in the form of a film that plays off an energizing juxtaposition of freedom and restraint. The camera moves fluidly inside a green labyrinth to open up in glimpses of the concrete jungle, playing off narrow spaces with vast horizons, the human and the natural, embodying a new set in which opposite worlds merge to progress.
This is the New Set. A tailored possibility for the modern world.
Images “Courtesy of Ermenegildo Zegna”
