JIL SANDER WOMEN SS2020 SHOW
The harmony of opposites. The Meier’s Jil Sander is rooted in this practice. For the Spring/Summer 2020 season the interplay, the symmetry, of softness and severity is found in the reciprocity of constructions, fabrics, colours, prints, and embroideries. In the way they merge emptiness and density. The distribution of elements into space. Marbled prints simultaneously evoke psychedelia and artisanal Florentine paper. Elaborated intarsias and embroideries in raffia, paper and beads, with tassels and collars, bedeck, and sometimes contrast (white on black), the preciousness of shirts, shirt-dresses, and gowns – their formal high necks and well defined shoulders – giving them movement, perspective, and depth. A translation of handwork and craft into structural elements.
Black and navy are shown together with earthly tones: almond, ecru, sand, cocoa, and dark green. Fabrics are noble. Linen crepe, popeline, satin, silk jersey and washed silk match the sharp tailored wools of jackets and trousers.
A majestic, long white shirt dress is straight at the front and pleated at the back. Mostly off-white or pale yellow, the draping is fluid and voluminous, floating off the body, with gliding or accentuated shoulders, broad, asymmetrical bottoms and hems, and bare arms, the only visible skin in the collection. The looks are emphasised by the season’s delicate and elemental suede sandal-boots that lighten the silhouette.
Tailoring is sharp, precise, and masculine, with cropped over-the-ankle trousers, straight or slightly flared. Dresses are often worn over trousers and under tailored jackets, accentuating the union of the structured tailoring with softer, more feminine pieces.
Colours merge into each other in a fluid, organic way. The black and white prints of fish and women’s bodies on silk, and the colourful embroidered birds, add allusions to the informed counterculture of early 1900s Vienna or 1960s San Francisco. Soft or sharp, bags are cut in pure geometry. A new classically shaped clutch is created by folding a round sheet of leather, in burgundy or black. The Jil Sander signature box bags are developed in different sizes, in leather or suede, with thin golden or silver chains. Real mother-of-pearl shells are lined with bright coloured suede and transformed into tiny, precious shoulder bags. A patchwork of off-white leather hexagons shapes a new basket bag. The Goji bag is reinterpreted and ornamented, or proposed in new proportions.