13 Jul 2024 By May Ng

Roger Vivier the Autumn 2024-25 Collection

Roger Vivier is proud to present its Autumn 2024 collection, a celebration of France’s 60s avant-garde, envisioned by creative director Gherardo Felloni. The collection pays homage to a moment where iconic refinement mingled with intrepid unconventionality, with designs that, though familiar in their elegant allure, hide a forward-leaping twist.

It is said that Monsieur Vivier enjoyed change so much that he anticipated it. Similarly, this Op-art themed collection sparks the future by playing with some of the Maison’s strongest archival designs. The Viv’ Canard, with its right-angle heel and ‘pinched’ toe inspired by the beak of a duck, is imagined in iconographic black and white pumps and slingbacks, or as lustrous black leather booties displaying the Maison’s signature side buckle, for a daring sensual look. The Virgule, and its unforgettable inverted comma heel from 1963, also receives a striking update, in black or bi-colour Mary-Janes with a buckle shaped crystal closure – assumingly comfortable yet highly distinguished.

The collection doesn’t only reimagine the Maison’s legacy, it also introduces bold innovation. Many new designs reference the Space Age’s circular and flowy aesthetic, notably those added to the Viv’ Choc family: the Royal Hobo bag’s round shape is inspired by an inverted headband, while the Viv’ Podium shoe features the Viv’ Choc bag’s buckle, artfully mirrored in the graceful round detail of the heel. This ‘buckled heel’ interpreted as a bootie, a single-strap sandal, and a ballerina, results in a long gently curved silhouette conveying an impactful look. Additionally, other more rugged designs like the higher- soled Viv’ Rangers boots make a strong entrance in the House’s repertoire.
But a collection celebrating the 60s could not ignore the Belle Vivier, an emblem of the era’s French culture and its global influence. Worn by Catherine Deneuve’s Belle de Jour in Luis Buñuel’s eponymous 1967 film, the shoe affirmed the protagonist’s bourgeois elegance while suggesting her internalized rebellion against the moral judgments of the time. Now, the shoe’s buckle is either discreet in a tone-on-tone rendition or overtly pop in colour-blocked slingbacks. Indeed, with the Belle Vivier, one never knows what to expect. The tortoiseshell you see on the front of the new slingback or on the handle of its matching Vanity is, in fact, resin. This experimentation of combining industrial materials with luxurious patterns is an adventure Monsieur Vivier led in the 60s, which the Maison continues to avidly explore today. Still, the graphical heel of the Belle Vivier, unchanged, continues to allow women to step firmly over pre-conceived ideas.