SS21 Phlegethon Mens’

PHLEGETHON IS ONE OF THE RIVERS IN THE INFERNO DESCRIBED IN DANTE’S DIVINE COMEDY, NOT QUITE THE CENTER OF HELL BUT ON THE WAY THERE.
ROMANTICIZING DOOM HAS ALWAYS BEEN AN ADOLESCENT MOOD BUT IT’S A CLASSIC WAY TO CONFRONT FEAR AND INSTABILITY — HOPE FOR THE BEST BUT PLAN FOR THE WORST.
MY LAST FALL RUNWAY SHOULDER FREAK OUT WASN’T ABOUT POWER, IT WAS ABOUT DEFIANCE — DEFIANCE IN THE FACE OF THREAT. THOSE SHOULDERS REAPPEAR IN THIS SPRING COLLECTION ON COATS AND JKTS WITH THE SLEEVES RIPPED OFF, LEAVING A RAW ARMHOLE WITH REMNANTS OF WHITE LININGS AS A RIOT CORSAGE.
BLACK GRAIN DE POUDRE TAILORING IS TRACED WITH WHITE STITCHED LEVEL LINES — SINGLE DECISIVE LINES TO SUGGEST ORDER AND REASON; AND GEOMETRIC SATIN CIPHERS HAVE BEEN INLAYED INTO LAPELS.
TRAPUNTO SHOULDER PATCHES ARE THE INFLUENCE OF MY LARRY LEGASPI RESEARCH WHILE COMPILING A BOOK ON HIM RELEASED LAST YEAR. THESE PATCHES ARE APPLIQUED IN PERGAMENA LEATHER FROM MOTTA ALFREDO — THE LEATHER USED FOR OUR FIRST ITALIAN-PRODUCED COLLECTION 18 YEARS AGO.
MOST OF THE LEATHERS USED IN THIS COLLECTION ARE DOUBLE-FACED WITH MINIMAL, UNLINED CONSTRUCTION, INCLUDING A 0.8MM THICK NEAPOLITAN-PRODUCED JUICY DOUBLE-FACED LEATHER WE CALL DOUBLE BUTTER.
WE DID A NEAPOLITAN GELATO DÉGRADÉ PRINT ON CHIFFON AND CRÊPE, EXTENDING IT TO KNITS. THESE KNITS DOUBLE UP, PEEL UP AND DOWN LIKE A BANANA, COVERING OR EXPOSING AT WILL.
A GROUP OF KNITS AND SWIMWEAR HAS BEEN DEVELOPED FROM THE MEMBRANE T-SHIRTS OF OUR SPRING SUMMER 18 ‘DIRT’ COLLECTION AND ANOTHER KNIT STORY OF MESH TANKS ORIGINATES FROM THE MASKS USED IN FW12 ‘MOUNTAIN’.
JKTS AND SHORTS ARE PRESENTED IN STRETCH DENIM SURFACED WITH PAILLETTES CUSTOM MADE FOR US FROM RECYCLED PLASTIC.
RECYCLED PLASTIC IS ALSO USED IN OUR SHOES AND RAINCOATS. THERE IS SOME DEBATE IN OUR STUDIO WHETHER THE USE OF RECYCLED PLASTIC GLORIFIES USING A TOXIC MATERIAL THAT THERE ARE OTHER OPTIONS FOR — OR — FINDING A WAY TO REUSE SOMETHING THAT ALREADY EXISTS…
TO COUNTERBALANCE THE HEFT OF OUR SHOULDERS, WE INTRODUCE A BOZO BALLAST BOOT SHAPE WITH OUR BAUHAUS ZIPPED CARGO POCKET.
OWENSCORP FRANCE7 BIS OF HIS SONG ‘PUSSY MONEY WEED’.
「Phlegethon」是意大利中世紀詩人但丁(Dante)所寫的《神曲》(Divine Comedy)中,地獄裡其中一條河流。河流並非地獄中心,但距離亦不遠。
把厄運浪漫化一向是年少的情懷,但亦是面對恐懼與不安的一種慣常心態──期待最好的來臨同時亦作最懷的打算。
我上個秋季於台上展示誇張的肩膀剪裁並不是權力的象徵,而是拒絕屈服的態度──面對威脅時絕不妥協。那些肩膀剪裁重現於今個春季系列的大褸及外套上,被扯掉了的袖口露出殘破的白襯裡,成為混亂不羈的袖口裝飾。
採用黑色羊毛絨的西裝剪裁以白色平衡針線刻劃──單一有力的線條井然有序;幾何的綢緞被悄悄地繡在翻領裡。
肩膀上夾棉補丁的創作靈感,是啟發自上年發佈關於Larry Legaspi書藉期間,我做資料彙集時所得到的。這些補丁採用由意大利皮革生產商Motta Alfredo所生產的Pargamena皮革造成──我們18年前第一個於意大利製造的系列也是用了這種皮革。
這個系列中使用的皮革結構簡約,以雙面及無襯裡為主,當中包括一種厚0.8毫米、於拿坡利製造的雙面皮革,我們稱之為「double butter」。
我們在雪紡和縐紗上印了一個拿坡利雪糕的三色圖案,並把這圖案申延至針織衣上。而這些針織衣可雙層穿著、捲上或捲落,就像香蕉般,可隨意遮蔽或暴露出來。
今個系列的針織及泳裝啟發自2018年夏季「DIRT」系列中的Membrane T恤。另一款縷空針織背心設計靈感則來自2012年秋冬季「MOUNTAIN」系列中所使用的面具。
外套及短褲採用彈性牛仔布,綴上特別為我們以回收塑膠定製以成的閃片。
鞋履及雨衣亦以回收塑膠製成。我們的工作室裡曾經討論過使用回收塑膠這議題。當可以其他物料代替回收塑膠時,究竟使用回收塑膠會否反而歌頒了有害物質?或使用回收塑膠只是純粹把已存在的物料循環再用?
而為了平衡肩膀設計的重量,我們今季引入了笨重的厚底靴款,靴身有包豪斯式(Bauhaus)的工作拉鍊袋。