31 rue Cambon with CHANEL

31 rue Cambon 是一篇向 CHANEL 美學發源地 rue Cambon 31 號總部致敬的頌詞,藝術總監 Virginie Viard 構思系列廣告時,再次邀請美國導演 Sofia Coppola 助一臂之力 — 去年 12 月工藝坊系列在巴黎大皇宮亮相,如同將總部 Chanel 女士 的公寓、訂製服展覽廳以及著名的鏡面樓梯搬進時裝表演現場,震撼的意念 Sofia Coppola 亦 有參與其中。

工藝坊系列廣告由 Sofia Coppola 任指導,Melodie McDaniel 負責攝影,傳奇的鏡面樓梯 成為廣告背景,模特兒 Mona TougaardGigi HadidVittoria CerettiRebecca Leigh LongendykeAnna Ewers、 Ola Rudnicka、潘浩文及 Blesnya Minher 踏著歡快步伐,從 Gabrielle Chanel 的殿堂走到 Karl Lagerfeld 與好友經常去的巴黎 La Coupole 餐廳 — 當 年餐廳的舞會可謂盛極一時。

廣告概念延續時裝展的主題,回歸 CHANEL 風格之根本,由建於二十年代初的裝飾藝術風格鏡 面樓起步,據說當年 Gabrielle Chanel 會坐在第五級樓梯觀察樓下舉行的時裝表演,觀眾卻 見不到她,從鏡中反映她就見到模特兒示範的身影。Sofia Coppola 解釋說:「我們想像當年 在總部舉行時裝表演的情景,觀眾近距離欣賞模特兒穿梭示範的興奮心情,還有 Chanel 的鏡 面樓梯都令我心往神馳。」

系列用色全為 CHANEL 經典:白色飄逸長裙及縐緞套裝;黑色平織外套繡彩色水晶,黑色羊毛 茄士咩軟呢大衣有華美刺繡;金色見於絎縫大衣、連身裙及一款繡滿花朵的蕾絲裙;Lesage 工 藝坊的麥穗、絲帶或珍珠刺繡點綴於多款服裝;一個鑲水晶金色雀籠形晚裝小手袋取材自 Chanel 女士公寓中的小雀籠,亦用於配襯廣告中一個造型;CHANEL 經典雙色概念見於輪廓 分明的黑白軟呢套裝,以及 Massaro 工坊製作的金配黑色高跟鞋;Lemarié 羽飾及花飾工坊 的工藝,為黑色蕾絲連身裙、有 CC 標誌的淡褐色半截裙以及印山茶花白色阿剛紗小斗篷錦上 添花;Gabrielle Chanel 心愛的山茶花鋪滿一件晚裝飛行員短外套;軟呢混珠片衣料用於連胸 飾的連身褲、短身套裝的外套及直身半截裙;另一經典元素鏈條與珍珠串、蝴蝶結或山茶花配 搭相得益彰。時尚首飾如手鐲、項鏈、長項鏈及頸圈光華閃爍,為造型添上華美一筆。

2019/20 工藝坊系列廣告影像表現 rue Cambon 31 號總部的神髓、活力、傳奇地位及永不過 時的時代感,完美地向 CHANEL 的歷史及經典風格致敬。

 

Go straight to the heart of CHANEL’s world: this was the spirit of the Paris – 31 rue Cambon 2019/20 Métiers d’art collection, which paid tribute to the House’s historic address. For the collection campaign, Virginie Viard has called upon the American director Sofia Coppola. They had also collaborated on the décor for the runway show, held last December at the Grand Palais, which reconstituted Mademoiselle Chanel’s apartment, the Haute Couture salons as well as the famous mirrored staircase of 31 rue Cambon.

The same staircase now serves as the backdrop to the campaign, photographed by Melodie McDaniel under the direction of Sofia Coppola. The models Mona Tougaard, Gigi Hadid, Vittoria Ceretti, Rebecca Leigh Longendyke, Anna Ewers, Ola Rudnicka, Pan Haowen and Blesnya Minher take a celebratory path that leads from Gabrielle Chanel’s legendary address to a place frequented by Karl Lagerfeld and his friends – the restaurant and the dancing of La Coupole in Paris.

A way of returning to the fundamentals of CHANEL’s style. Starting with the staircase at 31 rue Cambon, an Art Deco oeuvre created in the early 1920s where Gabrielle Chanel would sit to watch her shows, unseen by the audience, perched, as legend has it, on the fifth step. “We thought about the original shows that were held at 31 rue Cambon, and how great it must have been to see the models walking by so close, and the setting by Coco’s mirrored staircase, which always gives me a thrill to see,” explains Sofia Coppola. Mirrors with cubist faceting in which the silhouettes of the collection are reflected.

The chromatic range draws from the emblematic colours of CHANEL: white on a long fluid dress and a satin crêpe ensemble; black on a jacket in jersey embroidered with multicoloured strass and a richly embroidered tweed coat in wool and cashmere; but also gold, on a quilted bronze coat, a dress and a delicate lace ensemble swathed in flowers. Embroidery by the House of Lesage, whether it is an ear of wheat, ribbons or pearls, punctuates several creations. A minaudière in the shape of a golden cage constellated with strass, reminiscent of the famous little bird cage present in Mademoiselle’s apartment, is used to accessorise one of the silhouettes in the campaign. Two-tone, a CHANEL code, is perfectly expressed with a graphic suit in a black and white tweed, as well as the gold and black pumps made by the House of Massaro. The feather and flower maker Lemarié renders sublime a black lace dress, an ecru skirt embellished with double Cs, and a white cape in silk organza printed with camellias.

This flower, so dear to Gabrielle Chanel, entirely covers little evening bomber jackets. Tweed is blended with sequins on a jumpsuit finished with a plastron, and a short suit jacket and pencil skirt. Chains are also among the symbols celebrated and are worn with strands of pearls, bows or camellias. The jewellery – cuff bracelets, necklaces, sautoir necklaces, pendants and chokers – complete the look.

A true embodiment of the spirit and the energy of 31 rue Cambon, this series of photographs summons the legend of this unique place, its effervescence and its eternal modernity. The Paris – 31 rue Cambon 2019/20 Métiers d’art collection campaign is a celebration of the history and the codes of the House of CHANEL.