16 Jun 2024 By May Ng
TOM FORD Fall 24
The Fall 24 collection is a further depiction of the TOM FORD woman in the vision of Peter Hawkings. Glamour and seduction remain the defining pillars of her way of being, but her expression keeps getting streamlined, tense, possibly more direct. There is an immediacy to the way this woman decks herself out that is totally of this moment, and that pushes the TOM FORD ethos forward.
The essence of the vision is the juxtaposition of tailoring and flou, of exacting precision and liberating abandon. From the endless permutations of these opposites, the TOM FORD language arises. Masculine-inflected tailoring has a signature sharpness in the antsuits with flaring trousers, in the elongated coats with high collars. Faultless blazers and neat, cropped blousons are paired with shorts as wide as miniskirts. Military inspired chasseur jackets further assess the sense of seducing strictness. Long, free flowing dresses barely touch the body, while draped jersey draws liquid, sculpted silhouettes. Never afraid to show her body, the TOM FORD woman delves in velvet swimsuits, favors figure-enhancing ankle-skimming dresses and all-in-one catsuits. Gold and silver lurex add sparkle for day as well as evening. Highheeled shoes and neatly designed clutches and bucket bags complete the image together with wide, square sunglasses.
The sensuality of the proposal is conveyed by the unusual mix of highly tactile materials: cashmere flannel, velvet, wool and silk twill, cashmere, stretch velvet, silk jersey, double georgette, lurex velvet. The palette is an amalgamation of mélange grays, onyx black, midnight and vintage indigo blue, cream, vanilla and ivory with touches of golden olive, peridot and deep chartreuse and accents of garnet and powdered blush.
The creature that comes forward is strong and confident, with an edge. She echoes the fantasies of Antonio Lopez and the glamor and sophistication of Michelle Pfeiffer in Scarface. Her effortless way of being is resolutely contemporary.
