19 Jan 2024 By May Ng

Givenchy by the Studio Prêt-à-Porter Homme Fall-Winter 2024 Men’s Collection

Gentlemanliness is an expression of character. Underpinned by gallantry and grace, it is an aura activated by instinct and individuality. In its ongoing discoveries of contemporary elegance, the Givenchy Studio Prêt-à-Porter Homme stages a study of the new gentleman inspired by the character of Hubert de Givenchy. Presented in the salons of 3, Avenue George V – where the founder created his collections – the Fall-Winter 2024 men’s proposal explores the duality of his public and personal wardrobes: a sartorial formality energised by an inimitable off-duty sense for nonchalance, flamboyance and seduction. Conveyed through a present-day lens, it reflects a wardrobe rooted in the virtues of dressing yet irresistibly invigorated by the shock of the new.

The blouse blanche worn by Hubert de Givenchy in his studio is re-contextualised as an elegant workwear staple in sleeved and sleeveless form. The dressmaker’s uniform heralds a series of suits and coats engineered in the haute couture ateliers incised with armholes under the sleeves as a nod to his personal penchant for capes. They are rendered in the refractions of sapphire that pervade the collection, a colour scale so beloved by the founder he viewed it as an alternative to black. Tailoring in the neat silhouette of Parisian playboys morphs into the magnified volumes of trousers, framed by the audacious cuts and textures of outerwear informed by of punk and glam expressions.

A tension between the masculine and feminine found in the founder’s wardrobe and the décors of his homes unfolds. An opulent chandelier motif from the archives – interpreted in metallic embroidery with crystal and pearls, in jacquards and prints – is contrasted by teddy coats as well as bombers and coats constructed in upholstery chenille, a resilient cloth that likewise appears in combinaisons and long-johns. It sets the mood for an exploration of military staples materialised in flight and jump jackets in wools, leather and ponyskin.

The eccentric gestures with which Hubert de Givenchy imbued his personal wardrobe come to life in the collection’s graphics and surface decorations. Unshorn shearling is employed in outerwear and as adornment on trousers, while a twirled synthetic hair embellishment appears all over a jump jacket. An archival cat motif is adapted in hair print and shearling forms and features across garments and bags ornamented with secret resin or lurex cat eye details. An archival scarf emblazoned with a plaited hair print is recreated and thrown nonchalantly on the physique in the manner of Hubert de Givenchy’s spontaneous styling of his muses, along with scarves and shawls.

Along with a diamond-shaped infinity G monogram from the archives, the treasured logo belt of Hubert de Givenchy’s own wardrobe is honoured with the revival of a 2G emblem used on buckles. His penchant for bejewelling a woman’s back is celebrated in long necklaces adorned with elements of personal significance to the founder, while every model carries the signet ring he traditionally wore. Classic dandy sunglasses are animated with flamboyant tinted lenses and appear alongside mask frames reaffirming the collection’s bold approach to gentleman dressing.

The gentleman’s slipper inspires a slim and elegant loafer, mule and derby in a number of refined materials imbued with the comfort-driven detail of velvet. The sensibility is echoed in a collapsed-heel sneaker in mesh and ponyskin or perforated elevated materials. A fusion of a work- and cowboy boot materialises in a bold-toe silhouette with knotted leather cord detailing in leather, shearling or ponyskin. Observing Hubert de Givenchy’s love of nature, the Voyou bag is adapted in grained buffalo leather, velvety cowhide or shearling, and evolves into smaller accessories crafted in spazzolato with an equestrian spirit. The Pandora bag transforms into multi-pocket manifestations in rich textures like deerskin, textiles and velvet cowhide.